wood veneer over formica?

This formica is not woodgrain, but a solid mauve color...probably
looked very modern in the late 80's. I wanted to go with wood veneer
to make it feel and look more like a boat and less like an apartment in
Miami.
joe smith wrote:
> GSS wrote:
> > My boat has a blah formica interior...I was thinking about covering the
> > bulkheads with teak veneer. I noted several adhesion options,
> > including pressure sensitive backing, heat activated glue, and contact
> > cement. I'm concerned about the veneer holding up to a boats humid
> > interior. Has anyone tried this? How did it work out?
> >
> I was in the same "boat" with faded wood grain formica. I checked out
> the veneering options and figured I could make a major purchase, like a
> sail, air conditioner or rebuild my tranny for what it would cost to
> veneer all the formica on my GS 41. Plus I'm sure I wouldn't get the
> money out of it when I sell (I know this doesn't happen anyway, but I
> consider my time to be worth at least as much as the materials).
> I opted to "revitalize" the formica on the lower surfaces with
> stain/urethane and paint (off white to match the liner) the higher surfaces.
> The lower surfaces look rich and the upper much cleaner and brighter. To
> me it looks a lot better than what some have done with painting all the
> verticle surfaces bright white.
> Cheap way out? Maybe, but it looks a lot better and works for me.
> MMC
 >> Stay informed about: wood veneer over formica? 

GSS wrote:
> This formica is not woodgrain, but a solid mauve color...probably
> looked very modern in the late 80's. I wanted to go with wood veneer
> to make it feel and look more like a boat and less like an apartment in
> Miami.
> joe smith wrote:
>
>>GSS wrote:
>>
>>>My boat has a blah formica interior...I was thinking about covering the
>>>bulkheads with teak veneer. I noted several adhesion options,
>>>including pressure sensitive backing, heat activated glue, and contact
>>>cement. I'm concerned about the veneer holding up to a boats humid
>>>interior. Has anyone tried this? How did it work out?
>>>
>>
>>I was in the same "boat" with faded wood grain formica. I checked out
>>the veneering options and figured I could make a major purchase, like a
>>sail, air conditioner or rebuild my tranny for what it would cost to
>>veneer all the formica on my GS 41. Plus I'm sure I wouldn't get the
>>money out of it when I sell (I know this doesn't happen anyway, but I
>>consider my time to be worth at least as much as the materials).
>>I opted to "revitalize" the formica on the lower surfaces with
>>stain/urethane and paint (off white to match the liner) the higher surfaces.
>>The lower surfaces look rich and the upper much cleaner and brighter. To
>>me it looks a lot better than what some have done with painting all the
>>verticle surfaces bright white.
>>Cheap way out? Maybe, but it looks a lot better and works for me.
>>MMC
>
>
Understood. Probably still looks better than the faded wood look. When I
was checking my options, I was interested in the self adhesive, iron on
version. I did a little wall papering in the past and hated messing with
the glue.
Hope it goes well.
MMC
 >> Stay informed about: wood veneer over formica? 

joe smith wrote:
> GSS wrote:
> > This formica is not woodgrain, but a solid mauve color...probably
> > looked very modern in the late 80's. I wanted to go with wood veneer
> > to make it feel and look more like a boat and less like an apartment in
> > Miami.
> > joe smith wrote:
> >
> >>GSS wrote:
> >>
> >>>My boat has a blah formica interior...I was thinking about covering the
> >>>bulkheads with teak veneer. I noted several adhesion options,
> >>>including pressure sensitive backing, heat activated glue, and contact
> >>>cement. I'm concerned about the veneer holding up to a boats humid
> >>>interior. Has anyone tried this? How did it work out?
> >>>
> >>
> >>I was in the same "boat" with faded wood grain formica. I checked out
> >>the veneering options and figured I could make a major purchase, like a
> >>sail, air conditioner or rebuild my tranny for what it would cost to
> >>veneer all the formica on my GS 41. Plus I'm sure I wouldn't get the
> >>money out of it when I sell (I know this doesn't happen anyway, but I
> >>consider my time to be worth at least as much as the materials).
> >>I opted to "revitalize" the formica on the lower surfaces with
> >>stain/urethane and paint (off white to match the liner) the higher surfaces.
> >>The lower surfaces look rich and the upper much cleaner and brighter. To
> >>me it looks a lot better than what some have done with painting all the
> >>verticle surfaces bright white.
> >>Cheap way out? Maybe, but it looks a lot better and works for me.
> >>MMC
> >
> >
> Understood. Probably still looks better than the faded wood look. When I
> was checking my options, I was interested in the self adhesive, iron on
> version. I did a little wall papering in the past and hated messing with
> the glue.
> Hope it goes well.
> MMC

I would think that contact cement will work, just prep the surface. As
far as doing the whole cabin, I'd think again if I were you. I have the
opposite of what you have, all teak, and I'd love to get rid of most of
it, it makes the cabin too dark, I've seen the same boat as mine with a
good bit of mica, and it looks much nicer and brighter, makes the cabin
look bigger. So if I were you, I'd add some wood, but I wouldn't get
carried away, and that wood needs oiling as well, something the mica
doesn't need. Also, my head has wall paper on it (37 Topaz), and it
looks really nice. I've seen other boats with it as well, expensive
boats, it gives the surface a nice look, but keeps it bright and it
cleans up easy. It might be worth a try, a combination of some wood,
some paper, and some mica might be what your looking for. Just my two
cents.
John
 >> Stay informed about: wood veneer over formica?