Welcome to BoatingForumz.com!
FAQFAQ      ProfileProfile    Private MessagesPrivate Messages   Log inLog in

removing corrosion

  
   Boating Forums (Home) -> Boat General Discussion RSS
Next:  Free ride over..  
Author Message
William G. Anderse

External


Since: Feb 10, 2004
Posts: 90



(Msg. 1) Posted: Thu Jun 03, 2004 8:40 pm
Post subject: removing corrosion
Archived from groups: rec>boats (more info?)
I didn't know about corrosion and the effects of different metals when I
added a wake board tower to my runabout 5 years ago.
The other night, a 5/8" stainless steel bolt failed at the point where it
threads into a solid aluminum mount. The bolt is corroded to the mounting
plate it penetrates. There's insufficient space behind it to knock it
through and not enough thread exposed to put a nut on it to pull it through.
I sprayed it with penetrating oil and banged on it to try to get the oil to
saturate the corrosion, but don't think it's going to work.
looks like I have to try drilling it out and using an extractor - something
I've never been able to do before.
The frustration grows because the mounts are all inside the gunwales with
barely enough space to get my fingers or wrench inside. I never thought I'd
have to touch the nuts after I got them installed.
So, the moral of the story is that I always use antisieze now, but didn't
know about it 5 years ago.
Any ideas on breaking the corrosion on this and other mounting bolts that
are sure to be equally corroded?

 >> Stay informed about: removing corrosion 
Back to top
Login to vote
bomar

External


Since: Oct 03, 2003
Posts: 119



(Msg. 2) Posted: Fri Jun 04, 2004 4:01 am
Post subject: Re: removing corrosion [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
In this situation heat is probably out of question...
so-
KROIL.
A little had to find, but works wonders.
If not that, PB Blaster (most parts stores)
WD 40 is WORTHLESS for this.

Soak with Kroil or PB, rap with hammer, soak, repeat a bunch of times, good
luck

"William G. Andersen" <wgander.TakeThisOut@cox.net> wrote in message
news:LwPvc.38389$oi5.16111@fed1read07...
 > I didn't know about corrosion and the effects of different metals when I
 > added a wake board tower to my runabout 5 years ago.
 > The other night, a 5/8" stainless steel bolt failed at the point where it
 > threads into a solid aluminum mount. The bolt is corroded to the mounting
 > plate it penetrates. There's insufficient space behind it to knock it
 > through and not enough thread exposed to put a nut on it to pull it
through.
 > I sprayed it with penetrating oil and banged on it to try to get the oil
to
 > saturate the corrosion, but don't think it's going to work.
 > looks like I have to try drilling it out and using an extractor -
something
 > I've never been able to do before.
 > The frustration grows because the mounts are all inside the gunwales with
 > barely enough space to get my fingers or wrench inside. I never thought
I'd
 > have to touch the nuts after I got them installed.
 > So, the moral of the story is that I always use antisieze now, but didn't
 > know about it 5 years ago.
 > Any ideas on breaking the corrosion on this and other mounting bolts that
 > are sure to be equally corroded?
 >
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->

 >> Stay informed about: removing corrosion 
Back to top
Login to vote
Jack Goff

External


Since: Mar 21, 2004
Posts: 49



(Msg. 3) Posted: Fri Jun 04, 2004 4:49 am
Post subject: Re: removing corrosion [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
"bomar" <bomar76.TakeThisOut@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:ERPvc.20443$DG4.6221@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
 > In this situation heat is probably out of question...
 > so-
 > KROIL.
 > A little had to find, but works wonders.
 > If not that, PB Blaster (most parts stores)
 > WD 40 is WORTHLESS for this.
 >

<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.kanolabs.com" target="_blank">www.kanolabs.com</a> manufactures and sells Kroil and their other products
direct from their website.

Jack<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: removing corrosion 
Back to top
Login to vote
bomar

External


Since: Oct 03, 2003
Posts: 119



(Msg. 4) Posted: Fri Jun 04, 2004 6:22 am
Post subject: Re: removing corrosion [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
"Jack Goff" <cgoff.RemoveThis@sc.com> wrote in message
news:6zQvc.4962$wH4.261078@twister.southeast.rr.com...
 >
 > "bomar" <bomar76.RemoveThis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
 > news:ERPvc.20443$DG4.6221@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
  > > In this situation heat is probably out of question...
  > > so-
  > > KROIL.
  > > A little had to find, but works wonders.
  > > If not that, PB Blaster (most parts stores)
  > > WD 40 is WORTHLESS for this.
  > >
 >
 > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.kanolabs.com" target="_blank">www.kanolabs.com</a> manufactures and sells Kroil and their other products
 > direct from their website.
 >
 > Jack

And is the finest product of it's type on the market!<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: removing corrosion 
Back to top
Login to vote
Joe4

External


Since: Jan 01, 2004
Posts: 88



(Msg. 5) Posted: Fri Jun 04, 2004 5:24 pm
Post subject: Re: removing corrosion [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
"Jack Goff" <cgoff.RemoveThis@sc.com> wrote in message
news:6zQvc.4962$wH4.261078@twister.southeast.rr.com...
 >
 > "bomar" <bomar76.RemoveThis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
 > news:ERPvc.20443$DG4.6221@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
  > > In this situation heat is probably out of question...
  > > so-
  > > KROIL.
  > > A little had to find, but works wonders.
  > > If not that, PB Blaster (most parts stores)
  > > WD 40 is WORTHLESS for this.
  > >
 >
 > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.kanolabs.com" target="_blank">www.kanolabs.com</a> manufactures and sells Kroil and their other products
 > direct from their website.
 >
 > Jack

Good stuff, but there is better-
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://corrosionx.com/" target="_blank">http://corrosionx.com/</a><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: removing corrosion 
Back to top
Login to vote
Marshall Banana

External


Since: Jun 26, 2003
Posts: 149



(Msg. 6) Posted: Sat Jun 05, 2004 1:55 pm
Post subject: Re: removing corrosion [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
Also Sprach Joe <Joe.DeleteThis@privacy.net>:

 > "Jack Goff" <cgoff.DeleteThis@sc.com> wrote in message
 > news:6zQvc.4962$wH4.261078@twister.southeast.rr.com...
  >>
  >> "bomar" <bomar76.DeleteThis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
  >> news:ERPvc.20443$DG4.6221@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
   >> > In this situation heat is probably out of question...
   >> > so-
   >> > KROIL.
   >> > A little had to find, but works wonders.
   >> > If not that, PB Blaster (most parts stores)
   >> > WD 40 is WORTHLESS for this.
   >> >
  >>
  >> <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.kanolabs.com" target="_blank">www.kanolabs.com</a> manufactures and sells Kroil and their other products
  >> direct from their website.
  >>
  >> Jack

 > Good stuff, but there is better-
<font color=purple> > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://corrosionx.com/</font" target="_blank">http://corrosionx.com/</font</a>>

Corrosion-X is a fine, but messy preventative, but a piss poor
penetrant. Kroil is a fine penenetrant, but there is one even
better. http//www.mousemilk.com/ Ask any experienced A&P mechanic.

Dan

--

"If not stopped, the 21 million-plus and growing (Napster & Gnutella)
community could usher in a cultural apocalypse that threatens to plunge
the world into darkness not seen since the turn of the last millennium."

-Richard Parsons, AOL-Time Warner executive<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: removing corrosion 
Back to top
Login to vote
Gene Kearns4

External


Since: Feb 17, 2004
Posts: 317



(Msg. 7) Posted: Sat Jun 05, 2004 1:55 pm
Post subject: Re: removing corrosion [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
On 5 Jun 2004 10:55:24 GMT, Marshall Banana <dan DeleteThis @angband.org> wrote:

 >Also Sprach Joe <Joe DeleteThis @privacy.net>:
 >
  >> "Jack Goff" <cgoff DeleteThis @sc.com> wrote in message
  >> news:6zQvc.4962$wH4.261078@twister.southeast.rr.com...
   >>>
   >>> "bomar" <bomar76 DeleteThis @hotmail.com> wrote in message
   >>> news:ERPvc.20443$DG4.6221@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
   >>> > In this situation heat is probably out of question...
   >>> > so-
   >>> > KROIL.
   >>> > A little had to find, but works wonders.
   >>> > If not that, PB Blaster (most parts stores)
   >>> > WD 40 is WORTHLESS for this.
   >>> >
   >>>
   >>> <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.kanolabs.com" target="_blank">www.kanolabs.com</a> manufactures and sells Kroil and their other products
   >>> direct from their website.
   >>>
   >>> Jack
 >
  >> Good stuff, but there is better-
<font color=green>  >> <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://corrosionx.com/</font" target="_blank">http://corrosionx.com/</font</a>>
 >
 >Corrosion-X is a fine, but messy preventative, but a piss poor
 >penetrant. Kroil is a fine penenetrant, but there is one even
 >better. http//www.mousemilk.com/ Ask any experienced A&P mechanic.
 >
 >Dan


Kroil is better than Mouse's Milk for most applications. Mouse's Milk
was designed to remove carbon from and free up waste gates... it's
forte isn't garden variety corrosion, though it will work.

It may be possible to drill and tap the broken bolt with a 1/4 or 5/16
inch thread and remove using a slide hammer.

Make absolutely sure to drill in the center... since you eventually
may be forced to drill the bolt out with a 17/32 drill and clean up
with a 5/8 tap... (assumes 5/8-11 thds.)
--
23' Grady White, out of Southport, NC.

<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/cavern/" target="_blank">http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/cavern/</a> Homepage
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.southharbourvillageinn.com/directions.asp" target="_blank">http://www.southharbourvillageinn.com/directions.asp</a> Where Southport,NC is located.
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://southharbourvillageinn.linksysnet.com" target="_blank">http://southharbourvillageinn.linksysnet.com</a> Real Time Pictures at My Marina
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats" target="_blank">http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats</a> Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: removing corrosion 
Back to top
Login to vote
William G. Anderse

External


Since: Feb 10, 2004
Posts: 90



(Msg. 8) Posted: Sat Jun 05, 2004 3:01 pm
Post subject: Re: removing corrosion [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
Here's my follow up.
Didn't find Kroil or CorrosionX in the few stores near my boat, so I bought
SiliKroil and CB4 CorrosionProof.
Spent the day applying them to the several nuts and bolts I wanted to
remove, tapping them with a nailset and hammer, tried to remove them.
Finally drilled out the end of the 5/8" bolt, didn't have any luck using an
extractor, but used vise grips to twist the bolt inside the gunwale until I
had enough thread protruding to twist and pull it out. The bolt was held by
a nut inside the gunwale; the bolt ran through the backing and mounting
plates, but wasn't threaded through them. Comparing the old bolt to it's
replacement reveals that the bolt did not shear and was not corroded. The
threads of the bolt and the mount it screws into were in good condition,
except for the beginning threads of the mount which were
stripped/crossed/unusable.
During the original installation the bolt was threaded into the mount,
passed through the mounting and backing plates, flat and lock washers, and
then the nut. I suspect that after the nut was drawn up tight, continued
turning resulted in turning the bolt and unthreading it from the mount to
the point where it was held only by a few threads. Some severe bumping
probably caused the last few threads to lose their grip, allowing the bolt
to separate from the mount.

"Gene Kearns" <ewkearns DeleteThis @triad.rr.com> wrote in message
news:u3h3c0pah07uk9f4ldrqs51pqaom7g1mdq@4ax.com...
 > On 5 Jun 2004 10:55:24 GMT, Marshall Banana <dan DeleteThis @angband.org> wrote:
 >
  > >Also Sprach Joe <Joe DeleteThis @privacy.net>:
  > >
   > >> "Jack Goff" <cgoff DeleteThis @sc.com> wrote in message
   > >> news:6zQvc.4962$wH4.261078@twister.southeast.rr.com...
   > >>>
   > >>> "bomar" <bomar76 DeleteThis @hotmail.com> wrote in message
   > >>> news:ERPvc.20443$DG4.6221@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
   > >>> > In this situation heat is probably out of question...
   > >>> > so-
   > >>> > KROIL.
   > >>> > A little had to find, but works wonders.
   > >>> > If not that, PB Blaster (most parts stores)
   > >>> > WD 40 is WORTHLESS for this.
   > >>> >
   > >>>
   > >>> <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.kanolabs.com" target="_blank">www.kanolabs.com</a> manufactures and sells Kroil and their other products
   > >>> direct from their website.
   > >>>
   > >>> Jack
  > >
   > >> Good stuff, but there is better-
<font color=brown>   > >> <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://corrosionx.com/</font" target="_blank">http://corrosionx.com/</font</a>>
  > >
  > >Corrosion-X is a fine, but messy preventative, but a piss poor
  > >penetrant. Kroil is a fine penenetrant, but there is one even
  > >better. http//www.mousemilk.com/ Ask any experienced A&P mechanic.
  > >
  > >Dan
 >
 >
 > Kroil is better than Mouse's Milk for most applications. Mouse's Milk
 > was designed to remove carbon from and free up waste gates... it's
 > forte isn't garden variety corrosion, though it will work.
 >
 > It may be possible to drill and tap the broken bolt with a 1/4 or 5/16
 > inch thread and remove using a slide hammer.
 >
 > Make absolutely sure to drill in the center... since you eventually
 > may be forced to drill the bolt out with a 17/32 drill and clean up
 > with a 5/8 tap... (assumes 5/8-11 thds.)
 > --
 > 23' Grady White, out of Southport, NC.
 >
<font color=purple> > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/cavern/</font" target="_blank">http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/cavern/</font</a>>
Homepage
 > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.southharbourvillageinn.com/directions.asp" target="_blank">http://www.southharbourvillageinn.com/directions.asp</a> Where Southport,NC
is located.
 > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://southharbourvillageinn.linksysnet.com" target="_blank">http://southharbourvillageinn.linksysnet.com</a> Real Time
Pictures at My Marina
 > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats" target="_blank">http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats</a> Rec.boats
at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: removing corrosion 
Back to top
Login to vote
WaIIy

External


Since: Oct 29, 2003
Posts: 455



(Msg. 9) Posted: Sat Jun 05, 2004 3:25 pm
Post subject: Re: removing corrosion [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
On 5 Jun 2004 10:55:24 GMT, Marshall Banana <dan.RemoveThis@angband.org> wrote:

 >Corrosion-X is a fine, but messy preventative, but a piss poor
 >penetrant. Kroil is a fine penenetrant, but there is one even
 >better. http//www.mousemilk.com/ Ask any experienced A&P mechanic.
 >
 >Dan

I wonder what those little mouse milking machines look like.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: removing corrosion 
Back to top
Login to vote
basskisser

External


Since: Jul 15, 2003
Posts: 639



(Msg. 10) Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 12:34 pm
Post subject: Re: removing corrosion [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
"Joe" <Joe DeleteThis @privacy.net> wrote in message news:<rC%vc.42$po3.13@nwrddc03.gnilink.net>...
 > "Jack Goff" <cgoff DeleteThis @sc.com> wrote in message
 > news:6zQvc.4962$wH4.261078@twister.southeast.rr.com...
  > >
  > > "bomar" <bomar76 DeleteThis @hotmail.com> wrote in message
  > > news:ERPvc.20443$DG4.6221@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
   > > > In this situation heat is probably out of question...
   > > > so-
   > > > KROIL.
   > > > A little had to find, but works wonders.
   > > > If not that, PB Blaster (most parts stores)
   > > > WD 40 is WORTHLESS for this.
   > > >
  > >
  > > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.kanolabs.com" target="_blank">www.kanolabs.com</a> manufactures and sells Kroil and their other products
  > > direct from their website.
  > >
  > > Jack
 >
 > Good stuff, but there is better-
<font color=purple> > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://corrosionx.com/</font" target="_blank">http://corrosionx.com/</font</a>>


Tell us, JoeTechnician, what proof do you have that Corrosion X is
better than Kroil? Or is it just another of your absurd opinions?<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: removing corrosion 
Back to top
Login to vote
Joe4

External


Since: Jan 01, 2004
Posts: 88



(Msg. 11) Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2004 8:57 pm
Post subject: Re: removing corrosion [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
"basskisser" <atl_man2.TakeThisOut@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3c74f111.0406080834.57e58875@posting.google.com...

 > Tell us, JoeTechnician, what proof do you have that Corrosion X is
 > better than Kroil? Or is it just another of your absurd opinions?


Aside from the first hand experience I have had with each, there are some
important physical properties of CorrosionX that make it superior to Kroil.
I will be more than happy to list these properties for you. I will however
only give you one at a time to see how well you process the information.
In the unlikely event you show *any* ability to comprehend I will follow up
with others.

Here it goes-

#1, CorrosionX is a dielectric lubricant/protectant, Kroil is not.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: removing corrosion 
Back to top
Login to vote
Display posts from previous:   
Related Topics:
Removing flywheel on 1973 Johnson 115 - Replacing the stator on a 1973 Johnson 115 v4. Will I have to do anything to reassmeble such as line up flywheel with TDC? Someone told me this flywheel is "Notched" or whatever and it will only go on one way and this wont be needed. Does this ...

removing barnacles and husks - does anyone have a suggestion on how to remove barnacles and husks from a fiberglass hull. have already scrapped barnacles but husks remain. any suggestions on the best way to remove?

Removing leaf stains on fiberglass? - Hello Folks, Well, in my enthusiasm I uncovered my boat too soon this season. Consequently, the top side got covered with small leaves. The problem is that when I washed the boat to wax it, I could not remove the leaf stains. I tried most everything I..

Need Help Removing Teak(Tung) Oil from Fiberglass - I was redoing my wood on my boat & spilled some teak (tung) oil on my fiberglass. I've tried scrubbing & cleaners with no success. Any suggestions on how to remove it? Thanx.

??? about fiberglass roofing a houseboat - I have a houseboat whose roof has a bunch of thin spider cracks, as well as some a bit bigger. The biggest ones aren't wide enough to get any more than a razor knife blade in, if that. I want to put some more fiberglass sheet on it, and have never done....
   Boating Forums (Home) -> Boat General Discussion All times are: Pacific Time (US & Canada) (change)
Page 1 of 1

 
 You can post new topics in this forum
You can reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum



[ Contact us | Terms of Service/Privacy Policy ]