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Best way to remove swirl and burn marks on chrome?

  
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Jon Slaughter

External


Since: Feb 02, 2007
Posts: 3



(Msg. 1) Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2007 3:56 pm
Post subject: Best way to remove swirl and burn marks on chrome?
Archived from groups: rec>boats>building (more info?)
Does anyone know a very good way to do this? I tried using tripole and it
just made it worse. I had a few scratches and I thought I could use that to
remove them but I ended up with burn(I think thats what its called) and
swirl marks.

Now its worse than when I started. I do not have any finer abrasives with
me at the moment but I will buy something if I knew what to look for. My
idea was to get jeweler's rouge and just spend a few hours working on it but
I have no idea if this will work. Last thing I want to do is make it worse.
My goal now is just to remove the burn and swirls or atleast the burn.

I've seen several products that claim pretty amazing things but I doubt
there claims as it seems to good to be true.

Any ideas on how to solve this issue besides getting the thing replated(its
just a small area about 2x3 sqin and I don't see any reason to spend that
much money on getting it replated.).

(The marks are not deep but there are a lot of them and when the light hits
it just right its very bad looking)

Thanks,
Jon

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Shaun Van Poecke

External


Since: Dec 27, 2006
Posts: 63



(Msg. 2) Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2007 6:55 am
Post subject: Re: Best way to remove swirl and burn marks on chrome? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
"Jon Slaughter" <Jon_Slaughter.RemoveThis@Hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:rcMwh.7352$O02.2858@newssvr11.news.prodigy.net...
> Does anyone know a very good way to do this? I tried using tripole and it
> just made it worse. I had a few scratches and I thought I could use that
> to remove them but I ended up with burn(I think thats what its called) and
> swirl marks.

is it a flat area, or one with easy access? do you have an angle grinder?
if so get down to a polishing supply store (try fasteners shops and stored
that specialse in abrasives) and get a couple of polishing wheels for it.
Go with the lighter wheels (white cotton buff, and the blue denim-like
material), avoid the callico and hard wheels. Get a brick of polishing
compound, again go for a light compound. the bricks are miles better than
the liquids which just flinng all over the place and cost a whole lot more..
usually the lighter the color, the lighter the grit. you should be able to
get a few wheels and a brick of compound for under $10. you'll probably
need a washer on your grinder to let the wheels go on, bring the grinder
with you and stop at a fastener shop to get a few the right size. get a few
because you can guarantee if you get only one you will drop or lose it.

an angle grinder is really a bit faster than a proper polisher, but it wont
make any difference for your purpose. turn on the grinder, present the
brick to the wheel to load it. polish. dont re-load the wheel too long,
the compound needs to build up heat to polish. you'll get the knack pretty
soon. This is pretty much how most polishing gets done on things like
motorbike engine casings etc. if you ever have to polish something really
scratched, or rough, you'll need the rougher wheels and heavier compound
brick. a bit more time spent on the heavy compound saves a *lot* of time on
the lighter stuff and gives a better final result.

Shaun

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Jon Slaughter

External


Since: Feb 02, 2007
Posts: 3



(Msg. 3) Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2007 8:55 am
Post subject: Re: Best way to remove swirl and burn marks on chrome? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
"Shaun Van Poecke" <shaunvanpoecke RemoveThis @bigpond.com> wrote in message
news:tRZwh.2362$sd2.1063@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
>
> "Jon Slaughter" <Jon_Slaughter RemoveThis @Hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:rcMwh.7352$O02.2858@newssvr11.news.prodigy.net...
>> Does anyone know a very good way to do this? I tried using tripole and it
>> just made it worse. I had a few scratches and I thought I could use that
>> to remove them but I ended up with burn(I think thats what its called)
>> and swirl marks.
>
> is it a flat area, or one with easy access? do you have an angle grinder?
> if so get down to a polishing supply store (try fasteners shops and stored
> that specialse in abrasives) and get a couple of polishing wheels for it.
> Go with the lighter wheels (white cotton buff, and the blue denim-like
> material), avoid the callico and hard wheels. Get a brick of polishing
> compound, again go for a light compound. the bricks are miles better than
> the liquids which just flinng all over the place and cost a whole lot
> more.. usually the lighter the color, the lighter the grit. you should be
> able to get a few wheels and a brick of compound for under $10. you'll
> probably need a washer on your grinder to let the wheels go on, bring the
> grinder with you and stop at a fastener shop to get a few the right size.
> get a few because you can guarantee if you get only one you will drop or
> lose it.
>

Yes it is flat and I do have an angle grinder along with a grinding machine.
I was plan on getting the jewelers rouge bar and use that since I think its
the finest abrasive you can get? I'm not sure about the washers though,
what is that and what is it for? Does it keep the pressure down or something
so you don't apply to much when grinding?

> an angle grinder is really a bit faster than a proper polisher, but it
> wont make any difference for your purpose. turn on the grinder, present
> the brick to the wheel to load it. polish. dont re-load the wheel too
> long, the compound needs to build up heat to polish. you'll get the knack
> pretty soon. This is pretty much how most polishing gets done on things
> like motorbike engine casings etc. if you ever have to polish something
> really scratched, or rough, you'll need the rougher wheels and heavier
> compound brick. a bit more time spent on the heavy compound saves a *lot*
> of time on the lighter stuff and gives a better final result.
>

Well, I don't mind using a ligher compound if its more safe. Last thing I
want to to is make it worse. I was thinking about the white and red rouge
but try the red rouge and see how it works and if it does clean it up a bit
then try the white to speed up the process. I still have a few deeper
scratches to get out(the original scratches) but they are of lesser concern
at the moment.

Thanks for your time. I plan on going to the hardware store today and get
the materials. I do a little bit of shopping at fist and see what I can get.

I've seen the different types of buffing wheels but I'm not sure what to
get. There seems to be so many and for different applications. Hopefully
when I get to the store I won't have to much trouble.

So I suppose I need to get the abrasive, fasteners, and buffing wheels. Like
I said, I'll get the jewelers rouge, white rouge, look at the fasteners, and
try and get 2-3 buffing wheels that are very soft.

Thanks for the help,
Jon
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Shaun Van Poecke

External


Since: Dec 27, 2006
Posts: 63



(Msg. 4) Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2007 9:55 am
Post subject: Re: Best way to remove swirl and burn marks on chrome? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
"Jon Slaughter" <Jon_Slaughter.TakeThisOut@Hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3v%wh.6651$zH1.56@newssvr29.news.prodigy.net...
> Yes it is flat and I do have an angle grinder along with a grinding
> machine. I was plan on getting the jewelers rouge bar and use that since I
> think its the finest abrasive you can get? I'm not sure about the washers
> though, what is that and what is it for? Does it keep the pressure down or
> something so you don't apply to much when grinding?

if you look at your grinder, you'll likely find that there is a locking
plate to keep the disk on, then the disk, then a backing plate. The backing
plate most often doesnt work with a polishing pad, so you need an
appropriate sized washer to put in there instead. If you also have a bench
grinder and the part is removable from the boat then that can be a good way
to polish too... but you cant see the material surface as you are
polishing.

> Well, I don't mind using a ligher compound if its more safe. Last thing I
> want to to is make it worse. I was thinking about the white and red rouge
> but try the red rouge and see how it works and if it does clean it up a
> bit then try the white to speed up the process. I still have a few deeper
> scratches to get out(the original scratches) but they are of lesser
> concern at the moment.

most of the materials i have suggested are far on the safe side. a hard
wheel with a fark compound would be over kill. the materials i have
suggested (cotton or denim wheels, white or green compound bricks) are goint
to take minutes, not seconds to have an effect. you will have control over
the level of pollish

> Thanks for your time. I plan on going to the hardware store today and get
> the materials. I do a little bit of shopping at fist and see what I can
> get.
>
> I've seen the different types of buffing wheels but I'm not sure what to
> get. There seems to be so many and for different applications. Hopefully
> when I get to the store I won't have to much trouble.
>
> So I suppose I need to get the abrasive, fasteners, and buffing wheels.
> Like I said, I'll get the jewelers rouge, white rouge, look at the
> fasteners, and try and get 2-3 buffing wheels that are very soft.

its possible to go way too light with these things too, the guy at the shop
should have some good advise if its a specialist shop. the cotton buff that
i suggest is really only a final step, it wont take out scratches. a denim
type wheel witha gren compund is the lightest wheel that would be able to
remove a scratch in human years, many people would start with a calico wheel
and a grey brick.

Shaun
 >> Stay informed about: Best way to remove swirl and burn marks on chrome? 
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Jon Slaughter

External


Since: Feb 02, 2007
Posts: 3



(Msg. 5) Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 2:57 pm
Post subject: Re: Best way to remove swirl and burn marks on chrome? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
"Shaun Van Poecke" <shaunvanpoecke.TakeThisOut@bigpond.com> wrote in message
news:6q0xh.2415$sd2.1555@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
>
> "Jon Slaughter" <Jon_Slaughter.TakeThisOut@Hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:3v%wh.6651$zH1.56@newssvr29.news.prodigy.net...
>> Yes it is flat and I do have an angle grinder along with a grinding
>> machine. I was plan on getting the jewelers rouge bar and use that since
>> I think its the finest abrasive you can get? I'm not sure about the
>> washers though, what is that and what is it for? Does it keep the
>> pressure down or something so you don't apply to much when grinding?
>
> if you look at your grinder, you'll likely find that there is a locking
> plate to keep the disk on, then the disk, then a backing plate. The
> backing plate most often doesnt work with a polishing pad, so you need an
> appropriate sized washer to put in there instead. If you also have a
> bench grinder and the part is removable from the boat then that can be a
> good way to polish too... but you cant see the material surface as you
> are polishing.
>
>> Well, I don't mind using a ligher compound if its more safe. Last thing I
>> want to to is make it worse. I was thinking about the white and red
>> rouge but try the red rouge and see how it works and if it does clean it
>> up a bit then try the white to speed up the process. I still have a few
>> deeper scratches to get out(the original scratches) but they are of
>> lesser concern at the moment.
>
> most of the materials i have suggested are far on the safe side. a hard
> wheel with a fark compound would be over kill. the materials i have
> suggested (cotton or denim wheels, white or green compound bricks) are
> goint to take minutes, not seconds to have an effect. you will have
> control over the level of pollish
>
>> Thanks for your time. I plan on going to the hardware store today and get
>> the materials. I do a little bit of shopping at fist and see what I can
>> get.
>>
>> I've seen the different types of buffing wheels but I'm not sure what to
>> get. There seems to be so many and for different applications. Hopefully
>> when I get to the store I won't have to much trouble.
>>
>> So I suppose I need to get the abrasive, fasteners, and buffing wheels.
>> Like I said, I'll get the jewelers rouge, white rouge, look at the
>> fasteners, and try and get 2-3 buffing wheels that are very soft.
>
> its possible to go way too light with these things too, the guy at the
> shop should have some good advise if its a specialist shop. the cotton
> buff that i suggest is really only a final step, it wont take out
> scratches. a denim type wheel witha gren compund is the lightest wheel
> that would be able to remove a scratch in human years, many people would
> start with a calico wheel and a grey brick.
>
> Shaun

It didn't seem to work. It did seem to reduce the swirl almost completely
and reduced the cracks significantly but it caused several other problems:

First I seemed to remove the layer of chrome. There are regions where its a
gold luster(slightly more yellow) that fade into regions where its more
bluish/silver. It happens on places where I couldn't polish well such as
edges or holes. Also in the right light you can see lines sorta like
stainless steel. I used only jewelers rouge and one that was suppose to be
finer(jewelers was 5 and I got 6 too).

While in normal light it looks find and if its bright and not at the right
angle it looks all like chrome. But you can also see how messed up it was in
the right light.

I'm not sure what I did wrong. Only thing I can think of is that I used a
buffing wheel that was to strong. It was 6 Medium and it was the only one
Lowes had so I got that. I'm not sure if my "technique" was right or what.
It worked but is definately not back to the chrome plated look unless the
light is directly shining on it and not at an angle. In ambient light you
can see the cross over from the yellowish to blue that looks like a dirt
line or something. I think I wore off the chrome layer which is probably a
pretty bad thing? That or its a layer of oxidation or something?

;/

Jon
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Shaun Van Poecke

External


Since: Dec 27, 2006
Posts: 63



(Msg. 6) Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 4:56 am
Post subject: Re: Best way to remove swirl and burn marks on chrome? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
what kind of part is it? there are many levels of finish in chroming, and
cheaper products are generally chromed to a lower standard. a good qaulity
chroming will start with copper, sometimes severl layers of it, then nickel,
then sometimes several light layers of chrome plating on top of that. a
good crhome job is very wear and scratch resistant. a poor one scratches
pretty easily.

Im not sure what you mean by a number 6 medium wheel, but i did suggest
going with the lightest wheels and buying them from an abrassives
specialist. is the wheel you have very soft? would you rub it on your face
comfortably? is it a very light fluffy white cotton material, or more like
sisal? is it stitched together tightly, or a loose buff?

It sounds to me like what has happened is you have a very lightly
cosmetically chromed surface and you've gone at it with a slightly too
course wheel/polish and removed the top layer of chrome. what your seeing
underneath is probably copper. at this stage, you've got to make a few
choices... paint it, remove it and have it re-chromed, or just galvanise
it yourself if the appearance is not to important.

im guessing that the appearance is pretty important since you went to all
this trouble to polish it, so chroming is probably the likely choice. it
will cost you a few dollars, but shop around and you may find a place that
will do it cheaply. on the plus side, the new chrome finish is likely to be
better cosmetically, and more durable than the manufacturers finish.

Shaun

> It didn't seem to work. It did seem to reduce the swirl almost completely
> and reduced the cracks significantly but it caused several other problems:
>
> First I seemed to remove the layer of chrome. There are regions where its
> a gold luster(slightly more yellow) that fade into regions where its more
> bluish/silver. It happens on places where I couldn't polish well such as
> edges or holes. Also in the right light you can see lines sorta like
> stainless steel. I used only jewelers rouge and one that was suppose to
> be finer(jewelers was 5 and I got 6 too).
>
> While in normal light it looks find and if its bright and not at the right
> angle it looks all like chrome. But you can also see how messed up it was
> in the right light.
>
> I'm not sure what I did wrong. Only thing I can think of is that I used a
> buffing wheel that was to strong. It was 6 Medium and it was the only one
> Lowes had so I got that. I'm not sure if my "technique" was right or what.
> It worked but is definately not back to the chrome plated look unless the
> light is directly shining on it and not at an angle. In ambient light you
> can see the cross over from the yellowish to blue that looks like a dirt
> line or something. I think I wore off the chrome layer which is probably a
> pretty bad thing? That or its a layer of oxidation or something?
>
> ;/
>
> Jon
>
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