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Bralos

External


Since: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 5



(Msg. 1) Posted: Tue Jul 22, 2003 11:36 am
Post subject: polaris problems?
Archived from groups: rec>sport>jetski (more info?)

I have a friend with a 1996 SLT780 That is not running right. After being
unwinterized it was taken out twice and ran just fine. The third trip out it
ran fine for about a hour then would not run more than approx 15 MPH. I had
him check to make sure nothing was in the intake, change out the gas, check
the water separator, and put in new plugs. He then ran it another day and
the same thing worked fine for about a hour then no power and would only run
very slowly. He is bring it over this weekend for me to check out for him. I
thought I would ask here for some possible insight into what the problem
might be. He did state that the red light on the LCD was on and flashing.
The LCD display has been blurry for years and you cant read it so I don't
know if it states anything. If it is overheating for reason isn't there a
safely feature built into them to not run over XX until it cools down?
Thanks for any insight into this. Anyone have a used LCD they want to sell
??

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Jamie2

External


Since: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 6



(Msg. 2) Posted: Tue Jul 22, 2003 12:41 pm
Post subject: Re: polaris problems? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

Yes, the ski will go half speed for a variety or reasons (low fuel is one of
them). This is called "limp home mode". Anyway, a few potential reasons come to
mind:

1- The float in the gas tank has sunk, and the machine "thinks" it is out of
gas. This has been a problem with the SLT780's. Polaris had a new float that
does not sink. If you can read the display, you can rule out the float.
Replacing the float is a good days job. You must unbolt the tank from inside the
hood. There are four bolts. You will need a long extension on your socket (I
think the bolts are 12mm). Slide the tank forward as far as possible and remove
the sending unit from the top of the tank. Mark the wires so you re-install it
correctly. I replaced the entire sending unit, but now Polaris has just the
float you can replace inside the sending unit. When replacing the tank, wrap
paper over the bolt heads and force them into the socket. This way they will
stay put while you feel around for the tapped hole.

2- Could be overheating due to plugged cooling water intake grate (or other
problems, like a kinked hose inside the hull). Check the grate by looking into
the pump (back of ski) with a flashlight. The grate is about 1 square inch and
is located on the right side of the pump in about 5 inches. You can also flush
out the cooling system by installing a garden hose on the cooling rail that runs
along the top of the cylinders. The port to install the hose is directly
opposite the temp sensor. There should be a brass plug in it. You can get parts
from Home Depot to attach the hose or get the correct do-hickey from Polaris.
Remember to never run water through the motor unless the motor is running. Even
with the hose, I would not run the motor more than a minute or two at the most.
Just enough to flush out the cooling system.

3- Loose or corroded connections inside the black box. Disconnect the plug wires
and battery positive. Remove the 3 bolts holding the e-box inplace. They are
hard to get to, but it can be done. Lift the e-box out and let it rest on top of
the plugs. remove the 6 allen bolts and split the box open. Remove, clean,
e-grease, and replace all connections. Do one wire at a time to avoid
miss-wiring. Check the two fuses.

4- I'm sure there are a LOT of used Polairs LCD's out there, but none of them
are going to work. I think I paid around $300 (or more?) when I replaced mine.
They are nice to have. The SLT has a lot of features (clock, gas, oil, rpm,
speed, overtemp, etc). The only problem is the Polaris LCD actually shows the
correct speed. I can't brag about hitting mid 70's like my SD brethren Wink

Good luck...other folks may have better ideas....

Jamie.



Bralos wrote:

 > I have a friend with a 1996 SLT780 That is not running right. After being
 > unwinterized it was taken out twice and ran just fine. The third trip out it
 > ran fine for about a hour then would not run more than approx 15 MPH. I had
 > him check to make sure nothing was in the intake, change out the gas, check
 > the water separator, and put in new plugs. He then ran it another day and
 > the same thing worked fine for about a hour then no power and would only run
 > very slowly. He is bring it over this weekend for me to check out for him. I
 > thought I would ask here for some possible insight into what the problem
 > might be. He did state that the red light on the LCD was on and flashing.
 > The LCD display has been blurry for years and you cant read it so I don't
 > know if it states anything. If it is overheating for reason isn't there a
 > safely feature built into them to not run over XX until it cools down?
 > Thanks for any insight into this. Anyone have a used LCD they want to sell
 > ??<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->

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Wet Neck1

External


Since: Jul 17, 2003
Posts: 8



(Msg. 3) Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2003 6:43 am
Post subject: Re: polaris problems? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

It took me about 20.mins to change a float in a SLT 750...
my 2 cents

"Jamie" <jlarnerdNOSPAM.RemoveThis@us.ibm.com> wrote in message
news:3F1D3EF0.58C790B7@us.ibm.com...
 > Yes, the ski will go half speed for a variety or reasons (low fuel is one
of
 > them). This is called "limp home mode". Anyway, a few potential reasons
come to
 > mind:
 >
 > 1- The float in the gas tank has sunk, and the machine "thinks" it is out
of
 > gas. This has been a problem with the SLT780's. Polaris had a new float
that
 > does not sink. If you can read the display, you can rule out the float.
 > Replacing the float is a good days job. You must unbolt the tank from
inside the
 > hood. There are four bolts. You will need a long extension on your socket
(I
 > think the bolts are 12mm). Slide the tank forward as far as possible and
remove
 > the sending unit from the top of the tank. Mark the wires so you
re-install it
 > correctly. I replaced the entire sending unit, but now Polaris has just
the
 > float you can replace inside the sending unit. When replacing the tank,
wrap
 > paper over the bolt heads and force them into the socket. This way they
will
 > stay put while you feel around for the tapped hole.
 >
 > 2- Could be overheating due to plugged cooling water intake grate (or
other
 > problems, like a kinked hose inside the hull). Check the grate by looking
into
 > the pump (back of ski) with a flashlight. The grate is about 1 square inch
and
 > is located on the right side of the pump in about 5 inches. You can also
flush
 > out the cooling system by installing a garden hose on the cooling rail
that runs
 > along the top of the cylinders. The port to install the hose is directly
 > opposite the temp sensor. There should be a brass plug in it. You can get
parts
 > from Home Depot to attach the hose or get the correct do-hickey from
Polaris.
 > Remember to never run water through the motor unless the motor is running.
Even
 > with the hose, I would not run the motor more than a minute or two at the
most.
 > Just enough to flush out the cooling system.
 >
 > 3- Loose or corroded connections inside the black box. Disconnect the plug
wires
 > and battery positive. Remove the 3 bolts holding the e-box inplace. They
are
 > hard to get to, but it can be done. Lift the e-box out and let it rest on
top of
 > the plugs. remove the 6 allen bolts and split the box open. Remove, clean,
 > e-grease, and replace all connections. Do one wire at a time to avoid
 > miss-wiring. Check the two fuses.
 >
 > 4- I'm sure there are a LOT of used Polairs LCD's out there, but none of
them
 > are going to work. I think I paid around $300 (or more?) when I replaced
mine.
 > They are nice to have. The SLT has a lot of features (clock, gas, oil,
rpm,
 > speed, overtemp, etc). The only problem is the Polaris LCD actually shows
the
 > correct speed. I can't brag about hitting mid 70's like my SD brethren Wink
 >
 > Good luck...other folks may have better ideas....
 >
 > Jamie.
 >
 >
 >
 > Bralos wrote:
 >
  > > I have a friend with a 1996 SLT780 That is not running right. After
being
  > > unwinterized it was taken out twice and ran just fine. The third trip
out it
  > > ran fine for about a hour then would not run more than approx 15 MPH. I
had
  > > him check to make sure nothing was in the intake, change out the gas,
check
  > > the water separator, and put in new plugs. He then ran it another day
and
  > > the same thing worked fine for about a hour then no power and would only
run
  > > very slowly. He is bring it over this weekend for me to check out for
him. I
  > > thought I would ask here for some possible insight into what the problem
  > > might be. He did state that the red light on the LCD was on and
flashing.
  > > The LCD display has been blurry for years and you cant read it so I
don't
  > > know if it states anything. If it is overheating for reason isn't there
a
  > > safely feature built into them to not run over XX until it cools down?
  > > Thanks for any insight into this. Anyone have a used LCD they want to
sell
  > > ??
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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Scott Moseman

External


Since: Jul 08, 2003
Posts: 8



(Msg. 4) Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2003 9:11 am
Post subject: Re: polaris problems? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

I remember it taking about 30 minutes on my SL750.
The tube did not directly clear the opening, but I
was able to get it through with very minor flexing.
Probably would have been much easier if I would've
been able to loosen the tank bolts (really tight).

Thanks,

Scott Moseman
scottm DeleteThis @highflow.net


On Wed, 23 Jul 2003, Jamie wrote:

: On the 780, the tank has to come forward to get
: the float out. It's all "blind" work with arms
: contorted to get a wrench down to the bolts.
: Getting it back in was worse because you can't
: see if the mounting holes in the tank are lined
: up with the tapped holes in the hull. Nothing hard
: really, just needed some patience and a few cold
: ones. I guess it took about an hour one each end.
:
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Jamie2

External


Since: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 6



(Msg. 5) Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2003 11:36 am
Post subject: Re: polaris problems? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

On the 780, the tank has to come forward to get the float out. It's all "blind"
work with arms contorted to get a wrench down to the bolts. Getting it back in
was worse because you can't see if the mounting holes in the tank are lined up
with the tapped holes in the hull. Nothing hard really, just needed some
patience and a few cold ones. I guess it took about an hour one each end.

Wet Neck wrote:

 > It took me about 20.mins to change a float in a SLT 750...
 > my 2 cents
 >
 > "Jamie" <jlarnerdNOSPAM DeleteThis @us.ibm.com> wrote in message
 > news:3F1D3EF0.58C790B7@us.ibm.com...
  > > Yes, the ski will go half speed for a variety or reasons (low fuel is one
 > of
  > > them). This is called "limp home mode". Anyway, a few potential reasons
 > come to
  > > mind:
  > >
  > > 1- The float in the gas tank has sunk, and the machine "thinks" it is out
 > of
  > > gas. This has been a problem with the SLT780's. Polaris had a new float
 > that
  > > does not sink. If you can read the display, you can rule out the float.
  > > Replacing the float is a good days job. You must unbolt the tank from
 > inside the
  > > hood. There are four bolts. You will need a long extension on your socket
 > (I
  > > think the bolts are 12mm). Slide the tank forward as far as possible and
 > remove
  > > the sending unit from the top of the tank. Mark the wires so you
 > re-install it
  > > correctly. I replaced the entire sending unit, but now Polaris has just
 > the
  > > float you can replace inside the sending unit. When replacing the tank,
 > wrap
  > > paper over the bolt heads and force them into the socket. This way they
 > will
  > > stay put while you feel around for the tapped hole.
  > >
  > > 2- Could be overheating due to plugged cooling water intake grate (or
 > other
  > > problems, like a kinked hose inside the hull). Check the grate by looking
 > into
  > > the pump (back of ski) with a flashlight. The grate is about 1 square inch
 > and
  > > is located on the right side of the pump in about 5 inches. You can also
 > flush
  > > out the cooling system by installing a garden hose on the cooling rail
 > that runs
  > > along the top of the cylinders. The port to install the hose is directly
  > > opposite the temp sensor. There should be a brass plug in it. You can get
 > parts
  > > from Home Depot to attach the hose or get the correct do-hickey from
 > Polaris.
  > > Remember to never run water through the motor unless the motor is running.
 > Even
  > > with the hose, I would not run the motor more than a minute or two at the
 > most.
  > > Just enough to flush out the cooling system.
  > >
  > > 3- Loose or corroded connections inside the black box. Disconnect the plug
 > wires
  > > and battery positive. Remove the 3 bolts holding the e-box inplace. They
 > are
  > > hard to get to, but it can be done. Lift the e-box out and let it rest on
 > top of
  > > the plugs. remove the 6 allen bolts and split the box open. Remove, clean,
  > > e-grease, and replace all connections. Do one wire at a time to avoid
  > > miss-wiring. Check the two fuses.
  > >
  > > 4- I'm sure there are a LOT of used Polairs LCD's out there, but none of
 > them
  > > are going to work. I think I paid around $300 (or more?) when I replaced
 > mine.
  > > They are nice to have. The SLT has a lot of features (clock, gas, oil,
 > rpm,
  > > speed, overtemp, etc). The only problem is the Polaris LCD actually shows
 > the
  > > correct speed. I can't brag about hitting mid 70's like my SD brethren Wink
  > >
  > > Good luck...other folks may have better ideas....
  > >
  > > Jamie.
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > > Bralos wrote:
  > >
   > > > I have a friend with a 1996 SLT780 That is not running right. After
 > being
   > > > unwinterized it was taken out twice and ran just fine. The third trip
 > out it
   > > > ran fine for about a hour then would not run more than approx 15 MPH. I
 > had
   > > > him check to make sure nothing was in the intake, change out the gas,
 > check
   > > > the water separator, and put in new plugs. He then ran it another day
 > and
   > > > the same thing worked fine for about a hour then no power and would only
 > run
   > > > very slowly. He is bring it over this weekend for me to check out for
 > him. I
   > > > thought I would ask here for some possible insight into what the problem
   > > > might be. He did state that the red light on the LCD was on and
 > flashing.
   > > > The LCD display has been blurry for years and you cant read it so I
 > don't
   > > > know if it states anything. If it is overheating for reason isn't there
 > a
   > > > safely feature built into them to not run over XX until it cools down?
   > > > Thanks for any insight into this. Anyone have a used LCD they want to
 > sell
   > > > ??
  > ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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Bralos

External


Since: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 5



(Msg. 6) Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2003 1:23 pm
Post subject: Re: polaris problems? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

Anyway to test that this is the problem before I start taking everything
apart? Does the dealer have the new part or is it a aftermarket replacement?
"Bralos" <nospam.TakeThisOut@zerowait.com> wrote in message
news:3f1d3183$1_2@news.dca.net...
 > I have a friend with a 1996 SLT780 That is not running right. After being
 > unwinterized it was taken out twice and ran just fine. The third trip out
it
 > ran fine for about a hour then would not run more than approx 15 MPH. I
had
 > him check to make sure nothing was in the intake, change out the gas,
check
 > the water separator, and put in new plugs. He then ran it another day and
 > the same thing worked fine for about a hour then no power and would only
run
 > very slowly. He is bring it over this weekend for me to check out for him.
I
 > thought I would ask here for some possible insight into what the problem
 > might be. He did state that the red light on the LCD was on and flashing.
 > The LCD display has been blurry for years and you cant read it so I don't
 > know if it states anything. If it is overheating for reason isn't there a
 > safely feature built into them to not run over XX until it cools down?
 > Thanks for any insight into this. Anyone have a used LCD they want to sell
 > ??
 >
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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Tom Howlin

External


Since: Jun 21, 2003
Posts: 274



(Msg. 7) Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2003 3:24 pm
Post subject: Re: polaris problems? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

When the ski starts bogging down and red light starts flashing, does it
continue to exhibits these symptoms if you shut it down for a while and
then start it back up? The limp home mode is the same for overheat or
low fuel and the low fuel can be caused by a bad slider (very common).
However, if the slider has lost some of its buoyancy it may be okay for
the first half a tank and then bottom out (happened exactly that way on
my Blaster II - same freaking company made their floats!!!) but the
symptoms should persist until you add more fuel (i.e. even if it sits
for half an hour, it should still mimmick these syptoms within a few
minutes of riding). You can put an ohm meter on the wires coming out of
the tank and check that you get various ohm readings at different fuel
levels (you'll need the schematic to know wich wires, sorry I can't
remember). If it is overheating, the cylinders should be quite hot to
the touch (you won't be able to keep you hand on them for even a couple
of seconds) otherwise, you probably have the dreaded fuel float problem.
It's a dealer item and don't let them tell you that you have to buy
the whole assembly because they can't figure out the part number for
just the float (it's still about $20.00 just for the float but better
than $250.00 for the assembly).

Tom

Bralos wrote:
 > Anyway to test that this is the problem before I start taking everything
 > apart? Does the dealer have the new part or is it a aftermarket replacement?
 > "Bralos" <nospam.RemoveThis@zerowait.com> wrote in message
 > news:3f1d3183$1_2@news.dca.net...
 >
  >>I have a friend with a 1996 SLT780 That is not running right. After being
  >>unwinterized it was taken out twice and ran just fine. The third trip out
 >
 > it
 >
  >>ran fine for about a hour then would not run more than approx 15 MPH. I
 >
 > had
 >
  >>him check to make sure nothing was in the intake, change out the gas,
 >
 > check
 >
  >>the water separator, and put in new plugs. He then ran it another day and
  >>the same thing worked fine for about a hour then no power and would only
 >
 > run
 >
  >>very slowly. He is bring it over this weekend for me to check out for him.
 >
 > I
 >
  >>thought I would ask here for some possible insight into what the problem
  >>might be. He did state that the red light on the LCD was on and flashing.
  >>The LCD display has been blurry for years and you cant read it so I don't
  >>know if it states anything. If it is overheating for reason isn't there a
  >>safely feature built into them to not run over XX until it cools down?
  >>Thanks for any insight into this. Anyone have a used LCD they want to sell
  >>??
  >>
  >>
 >
 >
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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Scott Moseman

External


Since: Jul 08, 2003
Posts: 8



(Msg. 8) Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2003 4:48 pm
Post subject: Re: polaris problems? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

: It's a dealer item and don't let them tell you
: that you have to buy the whole assembly because
: they can't figure out the part number for just
: the float (it's still about $20.00 just for the
: float but better than $250.00 for the assembly).

When I replaced my float, I had to talk to one of
the service department folks to have them find it
for the sales department folks. Just more FYI.

Scott Moseman
scottm RemoveThis @highflow.net
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Jamie2

External


Since: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 6



(Msg. 9) Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2003 11:13 am
Post subject: Re: polaris problems? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

The correct ohms are: 33 Ohms Full, 240 Ohms empty. Test the Pink wire.

As far as the float, it is $19.99 retail according to Polaris web site (no P/N
given):

<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.polarisindustries.com/product/tips.asp?contentID=pwc&tipType=SEARCH&tipID=EE68D029-60C4-11D5-9D08-009027C34B34&txtSearch=fule%20sender" target="_blank">http://www.polarisindustries.com/product/tips.asp?contentID=pwc&tipTyp...EARCH&t</a>

The guy I bought my slt from replaced the float with a cork from a wine bottle.
Worked about two years Smile

If you split the e-box open, the 1/4 amp fuse (R/PUR wire) is power for the
Display (the 3 amp fuse protects the bilge pump).

The other wires in the display bundle are:

Tan = Temp sensor
R/Pur = Power
Blue = Low oil sensor
Pink = Fule Sendor
Blk = Ground
GRN/W and BLU/W are trim control, which the SLT780 does not have.

Jamie.


Bralos wrote:

 > I have a friend with a 1996 SLT780 That is not running right. After being
 > unwinterized it was taken out twice and ran just fine. The third trip out it
 > ran fine for about a hour then would not run more than approx 15 MPH. I had
 > him check to make sure nothing was in the intake, change out the gas, check
 > the water separator, and put in new plugs. He then ran it another day and
 > the same thing worked fine for about a hour then no power and would only run
 > very slowly. He is bring it over this weekend for me to check out for him. I
 > thought I would ask here for some possible insight into what the problem
 > might be. He did state that the red light on the LCD was on and flashing.
 > The LCD display has been blurry for years and you cant read it so I don't
 > know if it states anything. If it is overheating for reason isn't there a
 > safely feature built into them to not run over XX until it cools down?
 > Thanks for any insight into this. Anyone have a used LCD they want to sell
 > ??<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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SL1

External


Since: Jul 01, 2003
Posts: 104



(Msg. 10) Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2003 4:36 pm
Post subject: Re: polaris problems? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

Fuel float part number is 2872860 . That should make it easy to buy Smile

Scott Moseman wrote:
 > : It's a dealer item and don't let them tell you
 > : that you have to buy the whole assembly because
 > : they can't figure out the part number for just
 > : the float (it's still about $20.00 just for the
 > : float but better than $250.00 for the assembly).
 >
 > When I replaced my float, I had to talk to one of
 > the service department folks to have them find it
 > for the sales department folks. Just more FYI.
 >
 > Scott Moseman
 > scottm DeleteThis @highflow.net
 >

--
Polaris Forum Moderator
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.sbtontheweb.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi" target="_blank">http://www.sbtontheweb.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi</a><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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SL1

External


Since: Jul 01, 2003
Posts: 104



(Msg. 11) Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2003 4:39 pm
Post subject: Re: polaris problems? [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

Float part number is 2872860 .

Jamie wrote:
 > The correct ohms are: 33 Ohms Full, 240 Ohms empty. Test the Pink wire.
 >
 > As far as the float, it is $19.99 retail according to Polaris web site (no P/N
 > given):
 >
<font color=purple> > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.polarisindustries.com/product/tips.asp?contentID=pwc&tipType=SEARCH&tipID=EE68D029-60C4-11D5-9D08-009027C34B34&txtSearch=fule%20sender</font" target="_blank">http://www.polarisindustries.com/product/tips.asp?contentID=pwc&tipTyp...EARCH&t</a>>
 >
 > The guy I bought my slt from replaced the float with a cork from a wine bottle.
 > Worked about two years Smile
 >
 > If you split the e-box open, the 1/4 amp fuse (R/PUR wire) is power for the
 > Display (the 3 amp fuse protects the bilge pump).
 >
 > The other wires in the display bundle are:
 >
 > Tan = Temp sensor
 > R/Pur = Power
 > Blue = Low oil sensor
 > Pink = Fule Sendor
 > Blk = Ground
 > GRN/W and BLU/W are trim control, which the SLT780 does not have.
 >
 > Jamie.
 >
 >
 > Bralos wrote:
 >
 >
  >>I have a friend with a 1996 SLT780 That is not running right. After being
  >>unwinterized it was taken out twice and ran just fine. The third trip out it
  >>ran fine for about a hour then would not run more than approx 15 MPH. I had
  >>him check to make sure nothing was in the intake, change out the gas, check
  >>the water separator, and put in new plugs. He then ran it another day and
  >>the same thing worked fine for about a hour then no power and would only run
  >>very slowly. He is bring it over this weekend for me to check out for him. I
  >>thought I would ask here for some possible insight into what the problem
  >>might be. He did state that the red light on the LCD was on and flashing.
  >>The LCD display has been blurry for years and you cant read it so I don't
  >>know if it states anything. If it is overheating for reason isn't there a
  >>safely feature built into them to not run over XX until it cools down?
  >>Thanks for any insight into this. Anyone have a used LCD they want to sell
  >>??
 >
 >

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