Well ....hold on a second. From what you are saying, it sounds like you are
building a traditional ply-on-frame driftboat, right? If you check out my
boat's web site below, you'll see the bright finished mahogany one that I
built ...I know exactly where the sealants go. For the drift boat, you'll
only need a little of the sealant that you've got, but you can use it. The
only sealant used in the boat is for when the bottom panel assembly goes on
(I used 3M 5200) and then under the outside chine battens. Under the
battens,the sealant that you have will work fine. Traditionally, no
adhesive or caulk is used where the frames meet the sides, but people often
do use adhesives where the side panels meet the stem and the transom edges.
The problem with the frames is that the boat curves so sharply, and every
chunk of plywood bends differently, that no set of plans will give perfect
angles for those frame-to-side connections. You can put sealant in them to
keep water out of the side panels if you want, but I think when you go
through the process of bending the wood on those upside down frames,
clamping on several sets of blocks and clamps to hold the frame in place so
you can fasten it, that you'll introduce a nightmare of an experience into
the project as you try to do this difficult task with caulk lubricating
everything along the way. Some people cut, fit, and preassemble everything,
then disassemble and encapsulate with epoxy. If you do that, and you're
willing to put together sharply bent slippery components as described, then
you can build the whole boat with epoxy EXCEPT for attaching the bottom
panel to the boat and the outside chine battens to the chines. You still
need sealants (or adhesive caulks) for that.
After you're done building one of these, you may wish you'd done it
differently though (as I did.) I'd recommend against the idea of building a
framed drift boat. A typical boat will have 9 frames, between which junk
(mud, sand, fish gooby stuff, bait goobies, hooks etc) gets stuck and it's d
ifficult to remove. I even made my flooring system easily removable (quick
release latches) to make cleaning easier, but it's still a big hassle to
keep the boat clean. Instead of a framed version, why not take a look at a
proven stitch-n-tape design like the Tracy O'Brien boat? Goes together much
easier, rinses out like a bath tub and you'll be done in about 1/4th the
time. It has a good reputation both here in the Pacific Northwest and in
Alaska where these boats are used a lot. Since you've got nothing invested
in your case of sealant, then you're not losing anything by building the
better (IMHO) boat, right? Just my 2-bits ... (grinz) but I'd never build a
framed dory again unless doing it for traditions sake (which has high value
if you have the high desire.)
Brian D
--
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass" target="_blank">http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass</a> -- My 22' Tolman Skiff project
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.advantagecomposites.com/catalog" target="_blank">http://www.advantagecomposites.com/catalog</a> -- Discounted System Three
Resins products
..
"Chris" <SPAMKNOCKER RemoveThis @yournamehere.com> wrote in message
news:rISpc.63086$xw3.3688119@attbi_s04...
> Thank you.
> I will find some use for it I suppose.
> Chris
>
>
> "Glenn Ashmore" <gashmore3 RemoveThis @cox.net> wrote in message
> news:MgRpc.30948$Lm3.15088@lakeread04...
> > 15LM is a commercial very low modulus joint sealer used for expansion
> > joints and sealing around curtain walls, windows and doors. Places
> > where some movement is required. It has extremely good bond but very
> > low modulus means it cures to a soft rubbery consistancy. I can see it
> > used as a sealing material in bulkhead passthroughs on a larger boat but
> > I can't think of any use for it on a drifter.
> >
> > Chris wrote:
> > > A question for you . (I think my post looked more like spam or a
> product
> > > endorsment)....
> > >
> > > I was just given a case of Sikaflex – 15LM and am wondering if it can
be
> > > utilized in my rebuild of a McKenzie type wood drift boat.
> > >
> > > Primarily interested if it could be used where chines meet ribs, hull,
> > > bottom etc.. in other words.. can I use it somewhere?
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > > Chris
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > --
> > Glenn Ashmore
> >
> > I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
<font color=green> > > there of) at: <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.rutuonline.com</font" target="_blank">http://www.rutuonline.com</font</a>>
<font color=green> > > Shameless Commercial Division: <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.spade-anchor-us.com</font" target="_blank">http://www.spade-anchor-us.com</font</a>>
> >
><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
>> Stay informed about: ping Glenn Ashmore 
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