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someone

External


Since: Jul 31, 2006
Posts: 2



(Msg. 1) Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 5:55 pm
Post subject: overwintering
Archived from groups: uk>rec>boats>motor (more info?)

Hi,
We have been recommended to lift our Elysian 27 for the winter so that we
can inspect, scrape & anti-foul the hull etc.
We need to organise some stands/blocks/chocks (what is the correct term?) -
any suggestions for making/purchasing units of the correct dimensions?
While up on such devices, is it normally safe to board the vessel, or would
damage be possible?
Any pointers gratefully received!

Cheers

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Tony Brooks

External


Since: Feb 16, 2006
Posts: 32



(Msg. 2) Posted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 6:55 pm
Post subject: Re: overwintering [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

"Dew@mia.favor" <someone.DeleteThis@microsoft.cam> wrote in message
news:ZvXRg.43631$G72.10936@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...
> Hi,
> We have been recommended to lift our Elysian 27 for the winter so that we
> can inspect, scrape & anti-foul the hull etc.
> We need to organise some stands/blocks/chocks (what is the correct
> term?) - any suggestions for making/purchasing units of the correct
> dimensions?
> While up on such devices, is it normally safe to board the vessel, or
> would damage be possible?
> Any pointers gratefully received!
>
> Cheers

We had several on the hire fleet and they did them this way on a rough,
gravel car park.

Two chunks of something like railway sleeper perhaps 2 foot long to stand
the keel on. These must be high enough so the keel is held above any bumps.
One close to the back of the keel and one perhaps 1/4 way back from the
front of the keel.

Two old galvanised water tanks or other suitable sized and strong objects to
slide part way under the chines but not touch them. Placed about 3/4 way
back down the hull.

For each tank four wedges about 18 inches long made out of 4 by 4, These are
put together so one face is parallel with the tank and the other is roughly
parallel to the hull, one pair at each end of the tank. They are then
knocked in to support the hull but not hard enough to try to ".lift" the
boat.

For added security - especially if any engine running was planned. two
lengths of 4 by 4 cut so they wedge under the timber rubbing band against
the ground and are splayed out just a little. these are placed at about the
mid point and a single nail each side driven through the prop and into the
underside of the rubbing band to stop the prop being knocked sideways.

If people are climbing about on the boat and especially if the engine is
run,the wedges need to be checked in case they work loose.

Also works for Seamasters and practically any other boat

Its the keel pads that take the weight and the only damage we ever suffered
was when a pratt tied a tarpaulin line to a keel cooler pipe. We stored 5
boats of this size, a few smaller ones and many larger ones every winter and
the painting, fitting and mechanical work went on right through the winter.

We also had two triangular things that looked as if they had been knocked up
out of scaffold boards. The height would depend upon the height of the keel
pads. These took the place of the tanks and wedges were still used.

Luckily as an engineer I could leave the boat staff to oversee this job.


--
Tony Brooks
www.TB-Training.co.uk

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