Why a laminated tiller handle?

"Toller" wrote:
> The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be
asking a
> few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks.
>
> The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It
has
> delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane glue,
I think
> it will have to be replaced in the long run.
> It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S
curve is for
> anything but maybe style.

> Can I make the new one straight?

Yes, but it will look like ugly on an ape, and may not provide needed
clearances.

> Is there
> anycompelling reason it has to be laminated?

Yes.

Strength, appearance and resistance to warping.

> I have a nice piece of very
> old white oak I can use to cut a new one; will a solid white oak
tiller
> handle be inappropriate for any reason?

Save that piece of white oak.

Get some Hondourous Mahogany and some Ash, and some epoxy.

Rip 1/4" thick strips.

Build a laminating jig.

Have fun.

Lew
 >> Stay informed about: Why a laminated tiller handle? 

Depending on the cockpit's configuration a curve tiller is preferred.
Laminated teller with two part epoxy is better for strength and allow for
pattern variation like one or two layers of white hard wood with one layer
of dark wood. On my previous boat I made a spare tiller with one piece
solid ash and had no problem.
When you make a tiller you have to make sure that the holes are drilled
perpendicular and in line with the metal holding part mounted on the rudder.
When push comes to shove one of two fibreglass laminated hockey stick will
get you out of trouble. This is more true on smaller sailboat. The Potter
15 is a nicely configured boat. If you have the time and facility I would
go for laminated ash and holly wood ( or their equivalent) tiller with two
parts epoxy. You can use the old tiller as a template.

"Toller" <Toller.RemoveThis@Yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:n%iEi.15489$ya1.5315@news02.roc.ny...
> The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be asking a
> few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks.
>
> The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It has
> delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane glue, I
> think it will have to be replaced in the long run.
> It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S curve is
> for anything but maybe style. Can I make the new one straight? Is there
> anycompelling reason it has to be laminated? I have a nice piece of very
> old white oak I can use to cut a new one; will a solid white oak tiller
> handle be inappropriate for any reason? Thanks. (I have a bandsaw, so
> duplicating the curve would be easy enough, but I think it will weaken the
> handle, unless there is a good reason for the curve.)
>
 >> Stay informed about: Why a laminated tiller handle? 

"Bill" <williamdochnahl DeleteThis @adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:1189199815.750803.323000@r34g2000hsd.googlegroups.com...
> On Sep 7, 2:02 pm, "Toller" <Tol... DeleteThis @Yahoo.com> wrote:
>> The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be asking
>> a
>> few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks.
>>
>> The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It has
>> delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane glue, I
>> think
>> it will have to be replaced in the long run.
>> It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S curve is
>> for
>> anything but maybe style. Can I make the new one straight? Is there
>> anycompelling reason it has to be laminated? I have a nice piece of very
>> old white oak I can use to cut a new one; will a solid white oak tiller
>> handle be inappropriate for any reason? Thanks. (I have a bandsaw, so
>> duplicating the curve would be easy enough, but I think it will weaken
>> the
>> handle, unless there is a good reason for the curve.)
>
> I'm not sure about the curve but making it a laminate will allow you
> to vary the grain pattern so that if and when it begins to warp it
> will pull against itself and stay relatively straighter. You would
> want to keep the grain going long ways but because it is still in a
> circular pattern you flip one board over as compared to the previous.
> I am sorry about the bad description on this. Someone else may have a
> better one or even some wort of diagram to show you.
>
White oak is pretty stable, and this piece is about 40 years old. I hope it
will not warp, at least not much.
But it wouldn't be all that much work to cut it up and glue it back
together, reversing the pieces, if that will give better results.
Hopefully it won't delaminate like the current one.
 >> Stay informed about: Why a laminated tiller handle? 

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 >> Stay informed about: Why a laminated tiller handle? 

Toller wrote:
> The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be
> asking a few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks.
>
> The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It
> has delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane
> glue,

Not a good choice.
______________

> It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S
> curve is for anything but maybe style.

A curve brings the end where your hand goes higher relative to the
rudder stock. Or lower, depending.
______________

> Can I make the new one straight?

Yes
_______________

> Is there any compelling reason it has to be laminated?

Compelling, no.
_________________

> I have a nice piece of very old white oak I can use to cut a new
one;
> will a solid white oak tiller handle be inappropriate for any
> reason?

It will work fine. It will be rather heavy though. Mine is oak, made
of several pieces. The short & solid hand end is attached to two thin
pieces that are separated at intervals by three tapered blocks between
them. Making it in that manner decreased weight and saved a lot of
the shaping that would have been needed had I used a solid piece.
________________

(I have a bandsaw, so duplicating the curve would
> be easy enough, but I think it will weaken the handle,

It would.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
 >> Stay informed about: Why a laminated tiller handle? 

On Sep 8, 7:46 am, "dadiOH" <dad... DeleteThis @guesswhere.com> wrote:
> Toller wrote:
> > The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be
> > asking a few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks.
>
> > The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It
> > has delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane
> > glue,
>
> Not a good choice.
> ______________
>
> > It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S
> > curve is for anything but maybe style.
>
> A curve brings the end where your hand goes higher relative to the
> rudder stock. Or lower, depending.
> ______________
>
> > Can I make the new one straight?
>
> Yes
> _______________
>
> > Is there any compelling reason it has to be laminated?
>
> Compelling, no.
> _________________
>
>
>
> > I have a nice piece of very old white oak I can use to cut a new
> one;
> > will a solid white oak tiller handle be inappropriate for any
> > reason?
>
> It will work fine. It will be rather heavy though. Mine is oak, made
> of several pieces. The short & solid hand end is attached to two thin
> pieces that are separated at intervals by three tapered blocks between
> them. Making it in that manner decreased weight and saved a lot of
> the shaping that would have been needed had I used a solid piece.
> ________________
>
> (I have a bandsaw, so duplicating the curve would
>
> > be easy enough, but I think it will weaken the handle,
>
> It would.
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico

When it totally delaminates and some layers rot, cut out the rotten
layers. Use your table saw to cut thin strips to replace them with.
Glue it up with epoxy and it is as good as new. Worked for me.
 >> Stay informed about: Why a laminated tiller handle? 

Toller,

Over the past 35 years, I have had to reglue my tiller twice. I have since
given it
several coats of varnish and keep a cover on it when not sailing. I believe the

reason for the 'S' shape is to keep the tiller out of the way of your legs when
you are
standing close to the rudder post. Solid wood will warp in marine environment,
as
I discovered recently when I replaced my laminated benches with solid wood.

Sherwin D.

Toller wrote:

> The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be asking a
> few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks.
>
> The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It has
> delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane glue, I think
> it will have to be replaced in the long run.
> It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S curve is for
> anything but maybe style. Can I make the new one straight? Is there
> anycompelling reason it has to be laminated? I have a nice piece of very
> old white oak I can use to cut a new one; will a solid white oak tiller
> handle be inappropriate for any reason? Thanks. (I have a bandsaw, so
> duplicating the curve would be easy enough, but I think it will weaken the
> handle, unless there is a good reason for the curve.)
 >> Stay informed about: Why a laminated tiller handle? 

I guess the reason most tillers are shapely is to keep the tiller from
looking like an ugly stick. Ash is often used for tillers more than oak.
 >> Stay informed about: Why a laminated tiller handle? 

when I needed a new tiller someone suggested using a pick axe handle. well
it has worked fine with pickaxe for about three years now.just thought I`d
let you all know
Bri


"dadiOH" <dadiOH DeleteThis @guesswhere.com> wrote in message
news:gYvEi.509$282.86@trnddc01...
> Toller wrote:
>> The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be
>> asking a few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks.
>>
>> The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It
>> has delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane
>> glue,
>
> Not a good choice.
> ______________
>
>> It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S
>> curve is for anything but maybe style.
>
> A curve brings the end where your hand goes higher relative to the
> rudder stock. Or lower, depending.
> ______________
>
>> Can I make the new one straight?
>
> Yes
> _______________
>
>> Is there any compelling reason it has to be laminated?
>
> Compelling, no.
> _________________
>
>> I have a nice piece of very old white oak I can use to cut a new
> one;
>> will a solid white oak tiller handle be inappropriate for any
>> reason?
>
> It will work fine. It will be rather heavy though. Mine is oak, made
> of several pieces. The short & solid hand end is attached to two thin
> pieces that are separated at intervals by three tapered blocks between
> them. Making it in that manner decreased weight and saved a lot of
> the shaping that would have been needed had I used a solid piece.
> ________________
>
> (I have a bandsaw, so duplicating the curve would
>> be easy enough, but I think it will weaken the handle,
>
> It would.
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
>
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: Why a laminated tiller handle? 

This message is not archived
 >> Stay informed about: Why a laminated tiller handle? 

On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 09:58:49 GMT, "brian c" <brian.clode.RemoveThis@ntlworld.com>
wrote:

>when I needed a new tiller someone suggested using a pick axe handle. well
>it has worked fine with pickaxe for about three years now.just thought I`d
>let you all know
>Bri

When my fork and pin tiller gave up the ghost, I laminated in new
hardwood materials to make the tiller a yoke and pin.
I.e. a hole for the rudder post surrounded completely by wood.

A pick axe handle is usually specified to use the toughest wood
available and would be a very suitable basis, I reckon.

Thanks

Brian W
 >> Stay informed about: Why a laminated tiller handle? 

On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 13:05:28 -0500, Brian Whatcott
<betwys1 DeleteThis @sbcglobal.net> wrote:

>A pick axe handle is usually specified to use the toughest wood
>available and would be a very suitable basis, I reckon.

Wonder what they cost? Ash baseball bats cost about a hundred bucks.

Casady
 >> Stay informed about: Why a laminated tiller handle? 

On Mon, 10 Sep 2007 15:34:39 GMT, richardcasady.TakeThisOut@earthlink.net (Richard
Casady) wrote:

>On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 13:05:28 -0500, Brian Whatcott
><betwys1.TakeThisOut@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>>A pick axe handle is usually specified to use the toughest wood
>>available and would be a very suitable basis, I reckon.
>
>Wonder what they cost? Ash baseball bats cost about a hundred bucks.
>
>Casady

Under $20 for hickory if I recall....

Brian W
 >> Stay informed about: Why a laminated tiller handle?