In article <U3PXa.324$Ih1.297798@newssrv26.news.prodigy.com> , "Alex Gross"
<alexgross RemoveThis @sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> "Simon Brooke" <simon RemoveThis @jasmine.org.uk> wrote in message
>> Very bonnie.
>>
>> Two questions:
>>
>> (i) you're using very narrow strips. Do you not think with the easy
>> lines of this boat you could have used considerably wider strips
>> (like, twice as wide) and that this would have made the build
>> easier/quicker?
>
> I'm not sure about twice, but I could have definately used wider strips.
> The cedar that I purchased was only about 5/8 inch thick. That is one
> lesson I learned for the next boat.
>
>
This brings up an issue I have about using construction grade materials. Yes,
you can build a boat from materials conveniently purchased at your local
lumberyard or home building center, but at least consider the alternative - real
boat building lumber.
First, you can get clear boards 18-20 ft long and, if you order 'rough' lumber,
a full one inch in thickness. I've never seen any western red cedar in my local
lumberyard thicker than 3/4 in, and siding is often 5/8 - by the time you bead
and cove the edges of your strips (or cut your bevels) there is nothing left but
a sliver. There isn't much need to specify smooth planned boards, 'cause the
smooth surface is going to end up hidden in the glue between your strips. I
plane the rough boards just enough to be sure they are all the same thickness,
and, after machining my bead and cove edges, the 'rough' surface is gone.
By using full length strips you will avoid the abrupt change in color that too
often results when two shorter strips are joined end-to-end. It's hard for my
eye to caress the curves of a hull without tripping over the glue joints. Tip:
If you MUST use shorter boards, use 3 strips to make 2: As you are ripping your
strips, number the strips in the same order as they were in the board. Cut board
#2 in half and glue the south end of #2 to the south end of #1; glue the north
end of #2 to the north end of #3. Your scarf joints will much less obvious
because the 3 strips (now 2) are all about the same color and texture. Yes,
scarf joints, not butts - they are way better, aesthetically and structurally.
Also, you can specify flat sawn lumber from some boat lumber dealers, so you end
up with edge grain strips. The edge grain strips will be harder (resist denting
better), stiffer (resist oil canning better), and will be easier to fair when
sanding. IMHO, edge grain strips are prettier, too.
Of course there is also a downside to boatyard lumber - unless you happen to
live in a boat lumber producing area like America's Pacific Northwest or SW
Canada, shipping costs are significant. Still, considering the total cost of
your project and the man hours you are going to invest, I believe it's worth the
extra cost and hassle.
Here are some lumber sources that specialize in boat building woods:
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.edensaw.com/" target="_blank">http://www.edensaw.com/</a>
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.flounderbay.com/index.html" target="_blank">http://www.flounderbay.com/index.html</a>
full length bead and cove strips:
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.newfound.com/strpinfo.htm" target="_blank">http://www.newfound.com/strpinfo.htm</a>
flounder bay (see above)
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://members.aol.com/cedarcanoo/index.htm" target="_blank">http://members.aol.com/cedarcanoo/index.htm</a>
-GW<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
>> Stay informed about: My kayak building page 
FAQ
Profile
Private Messages
Log in
