"BCMP" <bcmp.TakeThisOut@paralynx.com> wrote in message
news:10rn0p7o2mo7068@corp.supernews.com...
>
> Hi Andy,
>
> As President of B.C. Marine Pumps we see this every week. If you have a
> rubber impeller pump the impeller should be changed even though it looks
> fine. If you have a rubber impeller pump pumping your anti-freeze you
> should remove it as the top operating temperature is 180F, then the rubber
> fails.
>
> Anyway, if you don't get the proper answer on here let me know.
>
> Harv
>
Please, please do not make this type of post without qualifying it in
respect of the type of cooling system. It will only scare potential
customers.
Whilst you are absolutely correct IF the engine is using a rubber impellor
type engine circulating pump, it is not correct in tha majority of cases. As
the original post was from a UK group, one may answer in respect of UK
practice and for years this has been to marinise such engines as either heat
exchanger or keel/tank cooled, using the original engine pump for engine
water circulation, the rubber impellor pump being used to circulate raw
water.
It is true that a direct cooled engine that has been converted to keel/tank
cooling will probably be using the rubber impellor pump for the main cooling
water, but because of its original configuration it should still be fitted
with the 70C thermostat. (my own boat falls into this catagory, and although
the temperatue gauge stabilises at about 80C (176F) the impellors are very
long lived - not least because the pump has a low lift cam fitted.
For UK boaters you can obtain impellors in either rubber compond or neoprene
for most pumps and one (can't remember which) has a lower operating
temperature.
In fact two of us have contributed to reassure that poster that is probably
as it should be. If we had been wrong the group would soon have told us.
Tony Brooks<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
>> Stay informed about: help needed with ford sabre cooling