Why a laminated tiller handle?

<salty DeleteThis @dog.com> wrote

> West Wight sells a replacement tiller for $55. That seems extremely
> reasonable.
>
> http://www.westwightpotter.com/content/MiniShopProduct.phtml?0/0/199
>

You can't even think about making a replacement for that price.

Lew
 >> Stay informed about: Why a laminated tiller handle? 

This message is not archived
 >> Stay informed about: Why a laminated tiller handle? 

Hey people,

Didn't we just go over this subject a couple of weeks ago?? Or was that
another 'forum' ??

Anyhow, if you don't like the 'stock' Potter tiller, there are at least 4
other sellers out there, with prices ranging from about $50 to about $100.

I was thinking of making one for the P15 I'm refurbishing. The present
'tiller' looks like a length of '2x4' that was cut to an 'approximate shape'
& painted brown !! While it worked for the past owner, it no-way suite my
'sensibilities'. I was thinking of making one myself {not really hard, just
time consuming}, but the afore mentioned prices are making me re-think THIS
part of the project.

Regards,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

<salty DeleteThis @dog.com> wrote
"Lew Hodgett" <lewhodgett DeleteThis @earthlink.net> wrote:

> >> West Wight sells a replacement tiller for $55. That seems extremely
> >> reasonable.
> >>
> >> http://www.westwightpotter.com/content/MiniShopProduct.phtml?0/0/199
> >>
> >You can't even think about making a replacement for that price.
> >
> >Lew
>
> AMEN!
 >> Stay informed about: Why a laminated tiller handle? 

On Sep 7, 5:02 pm, "Toller" <Tol....RemoveThis@Yahoo.com> wrote:
> The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be asking a
> few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks.
>
> The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It has
> delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane glue, I think
> it will have to be replaced in the long run.
> It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S curve is for
> anything but maybe style. Can I make the new one straight? Is there
> anycompelling reason it has to be laminated? I have a nice piece of very
> old white oak I can use to cut a new one; will a solid white oak tiller
> handle be inappropriate for any reason? Thanks. (I have a bandsaw, so
> duplicating the curve would be easy enough, but I think it will weaken the
> handle, unless there is a good reason for the curve.)

With respect to the other posters, and I have not read all the posts.
I can relate my experience. I laminated 5 pieces of 6mm Occoume with 4
0z. tight weave fiberglass and Epoxy in between layers. I am sure it
is still strong as hell, but it did have more flex than I would have
liked. The guy I made it for was thrilled though. Carry on, sorry if
this has already been noted.
 >> Stay informed about: Why a laminated tiller handle? 

On Mon, 10 Sep 2007 11:27:31 -0500, Brian Whatcott
<betwys1 RemoveThis @sbcglobal.net> wrote:

>On Mon, 10 Sep 2007 15:34:39 GMT, richardcasady RemoveThis @earthlink.net (Richard
>Casady) wrote:
>
>>On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 13:05:28 -0500, Brian Whatcott
>><betwys1 RemoveThis @sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>>>A pick axe handle is usually specified to use the toughest wood
>>>available and would be a very suitable basis, I reckon.
>>
>>Wonder what they cost? Ash baseball bats cost about a hundred bucks.
>>
>>Casady
>
>Under $20 for hickory if I recall....
>
>Brian W

The figure I gave is for a regular Louisville Slugger major league
professional bat. I couldn't believe it. Now the ash looks to be going
the way of the chestnut and elm. I am sure hickory would make an
acceptable bat.

Casady
 >> Stay informed about: Why a laminated tiller handle? 

On Fri, 07 Sep 2007 21:02:11 GMT, "Toller" <Toller RemoveThis @Yahoo.com> wrote:

>The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be asking a
>few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks.
>
>The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It has
>delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane glue, I think
>it will have to be replaced in the long run.
>It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S curve is for
>anything but maybe style. Can I make the new one straight? Is there
>anycompelling reason it has to be laminated? I have a nice piece of very
>old white oak I can use to cut a new one; will a solid white oak tiller
>handle be inappropriate for any reason? Thanks. (I have a bandsaw, so
>duplicating the curve would be easy enough, but I think it will weaken the
>handle, unless there is a good reason for the curve.)

If you really need the curves, perhaps you could steam bend the piece
of oak.

Casady
 >> Stay informed about: Why a laminated tiller handle? 

On Wed, 05 Dec 2007 14:41:57 GMT, richardcasady.RemoveThis@earthlink.net (Richard
Casady) wrote:

>A pick axe handle is usually specified to use the toughest wood
>>>>available

Maybe so, but pick handle is not a particularly demanding application.
What needs a handle tougher than any wood is a sledge hammer used to
drive steel wood splitting wedges. One good mishit and any wood handle
will break. I replaced it with a fiberglass handle when I broke the
wooden one.

Casady
 >> Stay informed about: Why a laminated tiller handle?