If you really have to make an FRP tank it is MUCH easier to do it with a
male mold. The important surface is the inside and male molds are easier to
polish to a good finish. It is very hard to get the corners laid tight
inside a female mold and that it where it will leak first. By mounting the
mold on a piece of Melamine you can also build up a good flat flange around
the opening so that it seals to the top better. I built my polyester grey
water tank and shower sumps this way and they came out darned near perfect.
Still don't think I would trust them with anything flamable though.
At a minimum I would use an isophalic or vinylester resin for the best
durability. Here is a good article from the Practical Sailor archive about
FRP tanks:
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.practical-sailor.com/newspics/charts/8912byofiberglasstanks.pdf" target="_blank">http://www.practical-sailor.com/newspics/charts/8912byofiberglasstanks.pdf</a>
--
Glenn Ashmore
I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.rutuonline.com" target="_blank">http://www.rutuonline.com</a>
Shameless Commercial Division: <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.spade-anchor-us.com" target="_blank">http://www.spade-anchor-us.com</a>
"Ron White" <knotreel(no-spam)@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:mfmod.44166$IQ.5202@bignews6.bellsouth.net...
> I built a 30 gallon gasoline tank that worked pretty well. I used
polyester
> and since then I have heard there is a preference for polyester over epoxy
> or vice versa for diesel, but I can't remember which is supposed to work
> better for diesel.
> I, like Glenn, had some tanks built by EZell. Ezell does a really nice
job.
> There is also RDS also in Perry FL. ( also a good tank builder)
> But if you just want to try a frp tank, build a female mold that will
define
> the bottom and sides .This can be MDF. Be sure to have big fillets in all
> corners because that is where you can be prone to have lamination and
> leakage problems.Build the top, a flat sheet, on a release surface. Then
fit
> the top to the molded part. Also think resin rich, you are not building
for
> maximum laminate strength but for leakage. Several coats of pure resin on
> the inside before you close it up. It is the resin that provides the
barrier
> for leakage, not the glass.
> Anyway it might be a fun thing to try, but.....
> --
> Ron White
> Boat building web address is
<font color=purple> > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.concentric.net/~knotreel</font" target="_blank">www.concentric.net/~knotreel</font</a>>
>
><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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