Doug,
I rewired my 1958 Chris Craft last year. I asked lots of questions, learned
some things, and everything appears to be fine. But please double check my
answers since, especially when it comes to the heavy current going through
the ammeter, that wiring it wrong could produce serious problems & hazzards.
>
> Lead Up Question #1
> There are three terminals on the back of the amp meter:
> [Wire to Battery Ground], [Wire to Battery Positive],
> [Two Wires: 1 from Alternator and 1 to Ignition].
If your ammmeter is lighted by a bulb then I think the wire going
to battery ground is just to provide ground for that bulb. If so, it
is probably a smaller wier than the larger positive wires. Probably
16 gauge? ~~ Also, some ammeters have an external shunt. I
don't know how those work/are configured. ???
I think the positive wire to your key is just a place for the key to get
power. I'm guessing that someplace coming out of the key is a wire
going to all the "accessory" power items. This is OK in that all of those
items are then controlled by the key. But it also means that all of their
draw is going through the key. This is OK but I choose to do
it differently. (see below)
The positive to battery and to altenator make sense. Power is
being produced by the altenator, flowing through the ammeter
(making it show positivly), and to the battery. OR power is flowing
from the battery, through the ammeter the other way (making it
show negativly) and then to the KEY for use by all the accessories.
In short: What you describe is fine & makes sense.
>
> Lead Up Question #2
> The positive lead that goes from the battery to the amp meter is split by
a
> small cylinder "thingy" mounted behind the dash board with a "40" on it.
Is
> this likely a master 40 Amp Fuse?
>
That's my guess.
> The Main Question
> How should the new Fuse Block be wired in? Where should it exist in
> relation to the wires described above?
>
What I did is a little different than some of what you have above. It may be
a good solution for you...or not. I also have a diagram I'd be happy to send
you
(or maybe I'll just post it on the web and leave you a link in a little
while).
My setup:
A) I have two batteries. They are connected to an A/B switch. The details
of this are for another discussion. But when I say "from the battery"
it
really is coming from the A/B switch.
B) A large 10 gague red wire comes from the battery positive, through a
fuse, and to the "S" post on the ammeter.
C) A large 10 gague red wire comes from the ammeter "I" post to the
positive bus on my fuse panel.
D) All accessories like lights, dash-board instrumentation, depth-finder,
12-volt outlets, etc. come from the "fused" side of the fuse panel.
That
is to say, the current comes from the positive bus, through a fuse,
and
out to each device.
E) The same goes for my ignition key. That is, there is the positive bus
on the fuse panel, a fused lead, and that goes to the key.
Note: This means my key does NOT turn on or off any devices. It
only gets power to run the starter-solnoid and to give the engine
"spark" to the coil. I realize that most people like to have items
turned on and off via the key. I choose to turn them on or off via
their own switches and/or to have a fuse panel that has switches
in it.
D) There is a large 10 gague Orange wire from my voltage regulator
(your altenator) that goes through a fuse and to the same positive
fuse-panel bus.
THE GENERAL IDEA IS:
Power flows from the battery, through the ammeter, and into the positvie
fuse-panel-bus. Power also flows from the ammeter to this positive-fuse
panel-bus. Some power is used from this bus to run all of the accessoris
and the key. ~~ When the engine if off all the power is coming from the
battery and shows as a negative amps. When the engine is on there is
"excess" power on the fuse panel bus and this flow through the ammeter
and to the battery - showing positive amps on the ammeter.
Note #1: Above I say "large 10 gague". I know this is redundant but it's
important that the wires are big ones and I wanted to emphisize that.
Note #2: I'm sure my colors are not standard. I wanted to have RED
be from the battery since that is how I think of it. I also wanted
the positive power form the regulator (altenator) be a different color wire.
Orange is what the store had in 10 gague when I went to buy it.
> Unrelated "What the heck?" Question
> My stern light has a positive lead coming from it's switch. The negative
> lead is terminated on the gas tank's sender unit.
The gas tank SHOULD be grounded to some metal (probably the engine)
that has a path to the water. If you ground the tank I can't see any reason
not to let the stern light ground through there. Except that you want it to
be
a good solid connection with no chance of a spark jumping from wire to tank.
But also no reason you couldn't run a seperate ground wire (or wire pair)
back
to your stern light.
>
> I've greatly appreciated the great responses I've received from this
> newsgroup over the past couple of months during my never-ending project.
> It's truly been a great resource. Thanks to everyone that makes this a
> worthwhile newsgroup!
>
I agree. This group has a lot of politics and non-boat junk (which I am
guilty
of adding to) but whenever someone needs information this is a great place
to ask for it. Lots of people here with knowledge that are willing to take
time to share it.
I'll post my wiring diagram in a little while and then leave a link here.
Good Luck.
Gary<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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