Ureathane or epoxy adhesive?

"Michael Daly" <michaeldaly.DeleteThis@foo.bar> wrote in message
news:oLydna1xie2VtHTZnZ2dnUVZ_qadnZ2d@magma.ca...
> mulroys wrote:
>> a single part urethane
>
> There are many different single part urethanes with many different
> properties. Care to narrow it down a bit?
>
>

Superglue.


--riverman
 >> Stay informed about: Ureathane or epoxy adhesive? 

mulroys wrote:

> I'm just about ready to put a new set of gunwales on an old fiberglass
> cartopper, and I'm very tempted to use a single part ureathane instead of
> epoxy.
>
> Opinions? Experience?

I wouldn't bother with anything other than West System epoxy or 3M 5200
marine adhesive sealant.

5200 is moderately easier to work with, and is flexible when it dries.

West system is a bit more fussy (but not by that much) and dries rigid.

//Walt
 >> Stay informed about: Ureathane or epoxy adhesive? 

Mulroy

Actually, save youself a lot of money and avoid the hassles of pumps and
bad mixes by using US Composites epoxy, which mix by volume, the ratio
depending on the desired cure rate. US Composites has the lowest cost for
epoxy of every US retailers and "makers"
http://uscomposites.com/epoxy.html

Just so you know, West System epoxy is nearly the exact same formulation as
MAS, but uses a slightly differnt hardener formulation. MAS uses a
hardener that supposedly makes for blushless cures, but this is not true at
all. Take a whiff of the hardener and you'll smell an ammonia, which in
the chemical process of curing, forms amines, which is the blush that
prevents good adhesion on second coats over cured previous coats (not to
worry, blush is completely water soluble, so scrub and rinse with plain
water, and mechanically rough up the surface). Anyway, both firms and just
about everyone else buys their resins and hardeners from one of three
chemical manufacturers, the majority from Monsanto and Dow. The issue
really comes down to viscosity, cure time, mix methods, and above all,
cost. West is ungodly expensive and pumps are notorious for burping and/or
incolpletely dispensing the correct amount, and you do not want to be
scraping uncured epoxy goo off (use white vinegar) after paying through the
nose for the West name.

3M makes two kinds of 5200, in a variety of quantities and colors, both are
very, VERY good, but one cures MUCH FASTER then the other. Specifically:

5200 Fast Cure becomes tack free in one hour and fully cured in 24 hours

"Regular" 5200 becomes tack free in 48 hours, and completely cures in no
less then 5 days (special conditions) and normally 6-7 days.

If you need to remove 5200, use Anti-Bond 2015, or 5210 remover, but
remember, this ONLY works for where you can apply the remover! In other
words, be certain what you're doing before making it essentially permanent.

Experience and resume of construction free for the asking



<walt_askier.DeleteThis@SHOESyahoo.com> wrote in
news:12ek6vssm2ubt5b@corp.supernews.com:

>
> I wouldn't bother with anything other than West System epoxy or 3M
> 5200 marine adhesive sealant.
>
> 5200 is moderately easier to work with, and is flexible when it dries.
>
> West system is a bit more fussy (but not by that much) and dries
> rigid.
 >> Stay informed about: Ureathane or epoxy adhesive?