Tinning copper bar

On Mar 10, 12:49 pm, CS <colinst....RemoveThis@hotmail.com> wrote:
> I have some lengths of cooper bar - 1 inc x 1/2 inch x 5 inch - used
> as interconnectors on 2v battery cells. I wish to tin them and can
> either cart them off to an electroplater or tin with solder. Solder
> wire worked fine on a test piece with a blow torch. My question is
> which solder bar to go for - lead free or leaded?? My instinct is
> leadfree - tin with some silver and possible copper - something like
> Sn96/Ag4.
>
> TVMIA

Hi.
You have gotten some good suggestions from the group. All seem to
assume you are going to put the bars back on the batteries, but you
never stated that, or what you were going to do with the bars.

Since the cells are 2 volt, we can assume they are lead-sulfuric acid.
Other chemistry will give different voltages.

If you are replacing the bars on the cells, spray them with clear
polyurethane for protection. Even if you tin them or plate them, still
protect them with something. All plating/tinning will have some
porosity an allow the acid vapor to begin electrolysis of the plating
and the copper. This is why your chrome trim on vehicles needs wax to
seal it. Polyurethane will completely seal the surface and will not
detract from the color of the plating.

Give us some more information!

best regards, Paul
 >> Stay informed about: Tinning copper bar 

. �I wish to tin them and can
> either cart them off to an electroplater or tin with solder. �

Several have addressed the type of plating.

My suggestion involves the heating. If Mama will allow preheat them in
the oven. Perhaps this will be hot enough for all the heating they
need. If not get a hotplate for the final heating before simply wiping/
tinning the bars with the solder of your choice.

Not sure what the number of the bars is but a larger solder pot would
allow the tinning to be done by immersion.

As another said watch out for the fumes.

Bob AZ
 >> Stay informed about: Tinning copper bar 

CS wrote:
> I have some lengths of cooper bar - 1 inc x 1/2 inch x 5 inch - used
> as interconnectors on 2v battery cells. I wish to tin them and can
> either cart them off to an electroplater or tin with solder. Solder
> wire worked fine on a test piece with a blow torch. My question is
> which solder bar to go for - lead free or leaded?? My instinct is
> leadfree - tin with some silver and possible copper - something like
> Sn96/Ag4.

Unless you need to use lead free solder, I would use traditional
lead-tin solder. The general consensus seems to be that lead free solder
is less satisfactory and more difficult to work with.

Best wishes,

Chris
 >> Stay informed about: Tinning copper bar 

Christopher Tidy wrote:
> CS wrote:
>
>> I have some lengths of cooper bar - 1 inc x 1/2 inch x 5 inch - used
>> as interconnectors on 2v battery cells. (...)

> Unless you need to use lead free solder, I would use traditional
> lead-tin solder. The general consensus seems to be that lead free solder
> is less satisfactory and more difficult to work with.

What Chris said. Leaded is better.
Plus, if you are generous with CLEANING and FLUX and heat before applying solder, you will
be rewarded with a nice, shiny finish.

Remember to wash your hands after working with any leaded metal. Please keep your face
out of the smoke.

--Winston
 >> Stay informed about: Tinning copper bar 

"CS" wrote: (clip) My question is
> which solder bar to go for - lead free or leaded?? (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I believe lead is used on top of storage batteries because it resists
corrosion by the sulfuric acid fumes. Using solder, I would worry that the
acid would leach out the tin, and leave you with a porous layer which would
then allow the acid to attack the copper. I would try tinning with solder,
and then cover that with lead. I'm pretty sure you could get the lead to
wet the solder easier than trying to get it to wet the copper. (Have never
tried it, though.)
 >> Stay informed about: Tinning copper bar 

I retinned all the mates copper pots a few years back using bar tin and flux
but Johnson's E-127 is a lot easier.

I have tinned all the bare copper busses going to the T fuse blocks on Rutu.
Used Johnson's E-127 Flux N Solder paste. Pure tin powder in a flux.
Scrubbed the copper clean, dipped it in some fresh degreaser and handled it
with cotton gloves. Spread the E-127 on all surfaces and laid it on an
asbestos shingle. Gradually heated it with a propane torch until the tin
melted and brushed it lightly with some bronze wool. Came out looking
better than a professionally tinned buss bar.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"CS" <colinstone DeleteThis @hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1e3b340e-01cb-4657-8cc6-30221879aa6d@d62g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
>I have some lengths of cooper bar - 1 inc x 1/2 inch x 5 inch - used
> as interconnectors on 2v battery cells. I wish to tin them and can
> either cart them off to an electroplater or tin with solder. Solder
> wire worked fine on a test piece with a blow torch. My question is
> which solder bar to go for - lead free or leaded?? My instinct is
> leadfree - tin with some silver and possible copper - something like
> Sn96/Ag4.
>
> TVMIA
 >> Stay informed about: Tinning copper bar 

On Mon, 10 Mar 2008 18:56:12 -0700 (PDT), Bob AZ wrote:

> . �I wish to tin them and can
>> either cart them off to an electroplater or tin with solder. �
>
> Several have addressed the type of plating.
>
> My suggestion involves the heating. If Mama will allow preheat them in
> the oven. Perhaps this will be hot enough for all the heating they
> need.

Eutectic solder melts at 361 F. The oven will do fine.
 >> Stay informed about: Tinning copper bar 

> I have tinned all the bare copper busses going to the T fuse blocks on Rutu.
> Used Johnson's E-127 Flux N Solder paste.  Pure tin powder in a flux.

Great tip - I'll use 100% tin solder paint and pop them in the oven at
250C. Much easier than faffing about with a blow torch and solder
stick.
 >> Stay informed about: Tinning copper bar 

On Mon, 10 Mar 2008 22:00:55 GMT, "Leo Lichtman"
<l.lichtman RemoveThis @worldnet.att.net> wrote:

>I believe lead is used on top of storage batteries because it resists
>corrosion by the sulfuric acid fumes.

There are no fumes at or near room temperature, For fumes you boil out

all the water at a relatively high temperature, ane then boil pure
acid.

Casady
 >> Stay informed about: Tinning copper bar 

preparation is the key.

do all your machining and mechanical work first

clean copper that has been cleansed of all oil or surface tension debris is
critical to your end product

naptha removes nearly all hydrocarbon type surface contaminants

to etch and open the atom structure, i use plain old toilet cleaner with
acid content (Hydrochloric) , even the smelly stuff works.

complete rinse in clear pure water until bright and shiny

then immediately into the solder bath or pot if you can afford it.

blowtorch heat will only cause instant creation of copper oxides, thus
causing troubel, that why we use solder pots

flux is cheap, use it freely

60/40 solderworks fine, lead free worksfine, lead alone will oxidize
eventually

use ventilation to draw fumes AWAY from the operators/personell supply
masks if needed.

"CS" <colinstone DeleteThis @hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1e3b340e-01cb-4657-8cc6-30221879aa6d@d62g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
> I have some lengths of cooper bar - 1 inc x 1/2 inch x 5 inch - used
> as interconnectors on 2v battery cells. I wish to tin them and can
> either cart them off to an electroplater or tin with solder. Solder
> wire worked fine on a test piece with a blow torch. My question is
> which solder bar to go for - lead free or leaded?? My instinct is
> leadfree - tin with some silver and possible copper - something like
> Sn96/Ag4.
>
> TVMIA
 >> Stay informed about: Tinning copper bar