Remove or Not Remove Partially Cured Epoxy?

Unlike the others, I'd vote for trying to get it to cure. A coating on a
deck is not structural, but just for sealing and abrasion resistance. I'd
try heating up the shop/deck/boat (whatever is easiest) to about 80 F or
even higher and keep it that way for a few days. It sounds to me like the
cure is progressing, but as others have mentioned, it may or may not cure to
the final hardness that you want. I don't think that's a big deal if it
gets reasonably hard and you put a couple of fresh coats of epoxy over the
top of it ...definitely easier than trying to remove it. Consider this:
Even your mostly-cured epoxy is harder and tougher than most plywood plies
that people are protecting with epoxy ...why not try to cure what you have
and then protect *it* with more layers of epoxy?

Brian D


<jaykchan DeleteThis @hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1150299948.104132.202420@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com...
>I would like to get some opinions on whether I should remove partially
> cured epoxy in one large area of my deck.
>
> Due to my failure to follow instruction in mixing epoxy and failure to
> do a test batch before using a new type of hardener, I had not
> thoroughly mixed the epoxy long enough when I installed the core
> material onto the deck. The result is that the epoxy cures very very
> slowly:
>
> - After one day, I felt that the epoxy was still wet.
>
> - After three days, I still could use my thumb to dent the epoxy.
>
> - After ten days (today), it is solid enough that I cannot use my
> thumb to dent it; but I still can use my finger nail to dent its
> surface. And I definitely cannot sand it yet.
>
> What should I do?
>
> Should I wait another week or so to see if it may completely cure? I
> can afford to wait because I can do something else while I wait; but I
> am not sure if the epoxy will be strong enough even if it is seemingly
> cured.
>
> Should I remove everything and start this over? Unfortunately, this
> will be very labor intensive to remove the partially cured epoxy.
>
> The epoxy is from MAS and the hardener is MAS slow hardener. The brand
> name may or may not matter.
>
> Jay Chan
>
 >> Stay informed about: Remove or Not Remove Partially Cured Epoxy? 

Denny wrote:

> Assuming the curing temperatures are above 60 degrees and it is still
> rubbery, you are hosed, it will never become hard and will get sticky
> and nasty in hot weather... Plan on grinding it away... Consider a wire
> brush mounted on a healthy drill motor (1/2") and lots of elbow
> grease...
> MAS is a fine product, I went through a couple of gallons on the past
> month when I ran low on WEST...
> denny - who has had every problem possible with epoxy...
>

It's just a gummy mess, but it has to cove off if there are any further
layers on top of it.

A scraper used like a draw knife will work better.
Clean more area quicker.

In the end, if this was supposed to be the last layer, (once cleaned!)
you will probably want to add another layer - just to get the surface back.

Best of luck...

Richard
 >> Stay informed about: Remove or Not Remove Partially Cured Epoxy? 

@#@

It most definitely has to come off. It will never cure properly. Get
yourself an small side grinder everyone makes
one now, get the rubber backing plate attachment and use very coarse open
coat sanding disc 10-60 grit it removes rubbery material fast. Epoxy is
notorious for ruining cutting tools and clogging sand paper good luck

Ray

<jaykchan RemoveThis @hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1150299948.104132.202420@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com...
>I would like to get some opinions on whether I should remove partially
> cured epoxy in one large area of my deck.
>
> Due to my failure to follow instruction in mixing epoxy and failure to
> do a test batch before using a new type of hardener, I had not
> thoroughly mixed the epoxy long enough when I installed the core
> material onto the deck. The result is that the epoxy cures very very
> slowly:
>
> - After one day, I felt that the epoxy was still wet.
>
> - After three days, I still could use my thumb to dent the epoxy.
>
> - After ten days (today), it is solid enough that I cannot use my
> thumb to dent it; but I still can use my finger nail to dent its
> surface. And I definitely cannot sand it yet.
>
> What should I do?
>
> Should I wait another week or so to see if it may completely cure? I
> can afford to wait because I can do something else while I wait; but I
> am not sure if the epoxy will be strong enough even if it is seemingly
> cured.
>
> Should I remove everything and start this over? Unfortunately, this
> will be very labor intensive to remove the partially cured epoxy.
>
> The epoxy is from MAS and the hardener is MAS slow hardener. The brand
> name may or may not matter.
>
> Jay Chan
>
 >> Stay informed about: Remove or Not Remove Partially Cured Epoxy? 

Jay,
I'd say the epoxy has finally reached the 'green stage' . . . about 10 days
late, but better then never. True, you really can't *properly* sand it yet -
but it proves that the chemical reaction IS progressing. What a lot of
people don't realize is that because the epoxy 'curing' is an 'internal
conversion' chemical process {as opposed to the 'catalyst additive' of
polyester}, a actual 'FULL CURE' can take several months. It's a geometric
progression so that after about 72-hours {if everything is done 'per
instruction'} it doesn't matter to the typical user. Additionally, because
the reaction is rather temperature dependent it can be somewhat controlled.
That is sped up or slowed down to almost a 'hibernation' point . . . I've
used it as low as the mid 30's, which supposedly you can't do.

If time is NOT a problem, and the surface is horizontal {so there is no
slippage or 'curtaining'} I'd just wait. Especially as the weather is
warming up. When it gets to the point you can't dent it with a finger nail,
give it a couple of swipes with some sandpaper. If it still gums up, wait a
bit longer and use a 'regular nail' for scratch testing. Use the time to
make some small 'test batches' so you get comfortable with mixing {BE
THROUGH - this is the MOST prevalent cause of problems}and application.

When physically possible, sand and proceed, or sand and 'paint on' a thin
cover coat of unthickened fresh epoxy and continue the project.

If not this . . . then get yourself a stack of filter masks, a Tyvek suit, a
couple of Surform tools & extra blades, belt sander & 'Planer' belts, a
4-1/2in surface grinder, and have at it.!!

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
{PS - I understand that MAS is quite a bit over-priced for what you get . .
.. and it's formulated relatively close to where I live}
..
<jaykchan.RemoveThis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1150299948.104132.202420@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com...
> I would like to get some opinions on whether I should remove partially
> cured epoxy in one large area of my deck.
>
> Due to my failure to follow instruction in mixing epoxy and failure to
> do a test batch before using a new type of hardener, I had not
> thoroughly mixed the epoxy long enough when I installed the core
> material onto the deck. The result is that the epoxy cures very very
> slowly:
>
> - After one day, I felt that the epoxy was still wet.
>
> - After three days, I still could use my thumb to dent the epoxy.
>
> - After ten days (today), it is solid enough that I cannot use my
> thumb to dent it; but I still can use my finger nail to dent its
> surface. And I definitely cannot sand it yet.
>
> What should I do?
>
> Should I wait another week or so to see if it may completely cure? I
> can afford to wait because I can do something else while I wait; but I
> am not sure if the epoxy will be strong enough even if it is seemingly
> cured.
>
> Should I remove everything and start this over? Unfortunately, this
> will be very labor intensive to remove the partially cured epoxy.
>
> The epoxy is from MAS and the hardener is MAS slow hardener. The brand
> name may or may not matter.
>
> Jay Chan
>
 >> Stay informed about: Remove or Not Remove Partially Cured Epoxy? 

When I mix a pot of epoxy, and maybe this goes back to my painting days, I
generally mix it really well (scraping sides and bottom with square-tipped
mixing stick) then set it on the bench for a couple of minutes to 'kick'.
While I do that, I get rollers or brushed together, or wipe down the
'project', etcetera. Then I stir up the epoxy real well (again) and go
ahead with using it. I prefer that to just standing there and mixing for 3
minutes and I've never had a failed batch, even with mustard-pump measured
5:1 ratio epoxies (yikes!)

Brian


"Ron Magen" <quahaug.RemoveThis@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:uo0kg.26606$X02.20217@trnddc02...
> Jay,
> I'd say the epoxy has finally reached the 'green stage' . . . about 10
> days
> late, but better then never. True, you really can't *properly* sand it
> yet -
> but it proves that the chemical reaction IS progressing. What a lot of
> people don't realize is that because the epoxy 'curing' is an 'internal
> conversion' chemical process {as opposed to the 'catalyst additive' of
> polyester}, a actual 'FULL CURE' can take several months. It's a geometric
> progression so that after about 72-hours {if everything is done 'per
> instruction'} it doesn't matter to the typical user. Additionally, because
> the reaction is rather temperature dependent it can be somewhat
> controlled.
> That is sped up or slowed down to almost a 'hibernation' point . . . I've
> used it as low as the mid 30's, which supposedly you can't do.
>
> If time is NOT a problem, and the surface is horizontal {so there is no
> slippage or 'curtaining'} I'd just wait. Especially as the weather is
> warming up. When it gets to the point you can't dent it with a finger
> nail,
> give it a couple of swipes with some sandpaper. If it still gums up, wait
> a
> bit longer and use a 'regular nail' for scratch testing. Use the time to
> make some small 'test batches' so you get comfortable with mixing {BE
> THROUGH - this is the MOST prevalent cause of problems}and application.
>
> When physically possible, sand and proceed, or sand and 'paint on' a thin
> cover coat of unthickened fresh epoxy and continue the project.
>
> If not this . . . then get yourself a stack of filter masks, a Tyvek suit,
> a
> couple of Surform tools & extra blades, belt sander & 'Planer' belts, a
> 4-1/2in surface grinder, and have at it.!!
>
> Regards & Good Luck,
> Ron Magen
> Backyard Boatshop
> {PS - I understand that MAS is quite a bit over-priced for what you get .
> .
> . and it's formulated relatively close to where I live}
> .
> <jaykchan.RemoveThis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1150299948.104132.202420@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com...
>> I would like to get some opinions on whether I should remove partially
>> cured epoxy in one large area of my deck.
>>
>> Due to my failure to follow instruction in mixing epoxy and failure to
>> do a test batch before using a new type of hardener, I had not
>> thoroughly mixed the epoxy long enough when I installed the core
>> material onto the deck. The result is that the epoxy cures very very
>> slowly:
>>
>> - After one day, I felt that the epoxy was still wet.
>>
>> - After three days, I still could use my thumb to dent the epoxy.
>>
>> - After ten days (today), it is solid enough that I cannot use my
>> thumb to dent it; but I still can use my finger nail to dent its
>> surface. And I definitely cannot sand it yet.
>>
>> What should I do?
>>
>> Should I wait another week or so to see if it may completely cure? I
>> can afford to wait because I can do something else while I wait; but I
>> am not sure if the epoxy will be strong enough even if it is seemingly
>> cured.
>>
>> Should I remove everything and start this over? Unfortunately, this
>> will be very labor intensive to remove the partially cured epoxy.
>>
>> The epoxy is from MAS and the hardener is MAS slow hardener. The brand
>> name may or may not matter.
>>
>> Jay Chan
>>
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: Remove or Not Remove Partially Cured Epoxy? 

Denny wrote:
> Assuming the curing temperatures are above 60 degrees and it is still
> rubbery, you are hosed, it will never become hard and will get sticky
> and nasty in hot weather... Plan on grinding it away... Consider a wire
> brush mounted on a healthy drill motor (1/2") and lots of elbow
> grease...
> MAS is a fine product, I went through a couple of gallons on the past
> month when I ran low on WEST...
> denny - who has had every problem possible with epoxy...

The temperature is well over 60. The area is under the sun and is
covered with a boat cover, and the area is really really hot inside the
boat cover. Therefore, temperature should not have anything to do with
this problem. In other words, the epoxy is really in trouble, or I
should say "I am really in trouble".

I don't think there is anything wrong with MAS. This is just that
their Slow Hardener seems to be more sensitive to mixing error (their
Medium Hardener is more forgiving). I have been able to get away with
mixing not long enough using their Medium Hardener and still get epoxy
cured just fine. Unfortunately, when I switched to their Slow
Hardener, I forgot to do a test batch first, and I will have to suffer
from my own error.

Oh well...

Jay Chan
 >> Stay informed about: Remove or Not Remove Partially Cured Epoxy? 

Thanks for telling me which tools to use to remove the uncured epoxy.

What's a "side grinder"? Is it the same as a surface grinder that
another newsgroup member has suggested? I probably will go easy with
using power tools; the reason is that the area underneat the uncured
epoxy is just a thin layer of the inner skin of the cored deck. I
probably want to stick with hand tool such as a green pad, a wire
brush, a paint scraper, and white-vinegar.

Jay Chan


Raynaud wrote:
> @#@
>
> It most definitely has to come off. It will never cure properly. Get
> yourself an small side grinder everyone makes
> one now, get the rubber backing plate attachment and use very coarse open
> coat sanding disc 10-60 grit it removes rubbery material fast. Epoxy is
> notorious for ruining cutting tools and clogging sand paper good luck
>
> Ray
>
> <jaykchan.RemoveThis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1150299948.104132.202420@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com...
> >I would like to get some opinions on whether I should remove partially
> > cured epoxy in one large area of my deck.
> >
> > Due to my failure to follow instruction in mixing epoxy and failure to
> > do a test batch before using a new type of hardener, I had not
> > thoroughly mixed the epoxy long enough when I installed the core
> > material onto the deck. The result is that the epoxy cures very very
> > slowly:
> >
> > - After one day, I felt that the epoxy was still wet.
> >
> > - After three days, I still could use my thumb to dent the epoxy.
> >
> > - After ten days (today), it is solid enough that I cannot use my
> > thumb to dent it; but I still can use my finger nail to dent its
> > surface. And I definitely cannot sand it yet.
> >
> > What should I do?
> >
> > Should I wait another week or so to see if it may completely cure? I
> > can afford to wait because I can do something else while I wait; but I
> > am not sure if the epoxy will be strong enough even if it is seemingly
> > cured.
> >
> > Should I remove everything and start this over? Unfortunately, this
> > will be very labor intensive to remove the partially cured epoxy.
> >
> > The epoxy is from MAS and the hardener is MAS slow hardener. The brand
> > name may or may not matter.
> >
> > Jay Chan
> >
 >> Stay informed about: Remove or Not Remove Partially Cured Epoxy? 

Actually, the uncured epoxy is supposed to secure the core material on
the inner skin of the cored deck. Therefore, it is structural. I
check it this morning, and I find that the area is still bouncy. I
expect that the area should be rigid enough with the combo of the inner
skin, the epoxy, and the core material; but it is not. This means I
cannot expect it to provide any structural support as a deck is
supposed to do. That is not good.

On the other hand, you are right -- removing the uncured epoxy is going
to be a messy job. I think I will give it one more week to see if will
be cured by then -- hopefully.

Jay Chan


Brian D wrote:
> Unlike the others, I'd vote for trying to get it to cure. A coating on a
> deck is not structural, but just for sealing and abrasion resistance. I'd
> try heating up the shop/deck/boat (whatever is easiest) to about 80 F or
> even higher and keep it that way for a few days. It sounds to me like the
> cure is progressing, but as others have mentioned, it may or may not cure to
> the final hardness that you want. I don't think that's a big deal if it
> gets reasonably hard and you put a couple of fresh coats of epoxy over the
> top of it ...definitely easier than trying to remove it. Consider this:
> Even your mostly-cured epoxy is harder and tougher than most plywood plies
> that people are protecting with epoxy ...why not try to cure what you have
> and then protect *it* with more layers of epoxy?
>
> Brian D
>
>
> <jaykchan.TakeThisOut@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1150299948.104132.202420@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com...
> >I would like to get some opinions on whether I should remove partially
> > cured epoxy in one large area of my deck.
> >
> > Due to my failure to follow instruction in mixing epoxy and failure to
> > do a test batch before using a new type of hardener, I had not
> > thoroughly mixed the epoxy long enough when I installed the core
> > material onto the deck. The result is that the epoxy cures very very
> > slowly:
> >
> > - After one day, I felt that the epoxy was still wet.
> >
> > - After three days, I still could use my thumb to dent the epoxy.
> >
> > - After ten days (today), it is solid enough that I cannot use my
> > thumb to dent it; but I still can use my finger nail to dent its
> > surface. And I definitely cannot sand it yet.
> >
> > What should I do?
> >
> > Should I wait another week or so to see if it may completely cure? I
> > can afford to wait because I can do something else while I wait; but I
> > am not sure if the epoxy will be strong enough even if it is seemingly
> > cured.
> >
> > Should I remove everything and start this over? Unfortunately, this
> > will be very labor intensive to remove the partially cured epoxy.
> >
> > The epoxy is from MAS and the hardener is MAS slow hardener. The brand
> > name may or may not matter.
> >
> > Jay Chan
> >
 >> Stay informed about: Remove or Not Remove Partially Cured Epoxy? 

Glad to hear that there is some hope. OK, I will wait a week or two to
give it a chance. Meanwhile, I can always work on something else or go
fishing on a rental boat. If after two weeks my finger nail still can
make a dent on the epoxy, I will remove it.

Also thanks for the suggestion of using a surface grinder. I will look
for it in home center.

Jay Chan


Ron Magen wrote:
> Jay,
> I'd say the epoxy has finally reached the 'green stage' . . . about 10 days
> late, but better then never. True, you really can't *properly* sand it yet -
> but it proves that the chemical reaction IS progressing. What a lot of
> people don't realize is that because the epoxy 'curing' is an 'internal
> conversion' chemical process {as opposed to the 'catalyst additive' of
> polyester}, a actual 'FULL CURE' can take several months. It's a geometric
> progression so that after about 72-hours {if everything is done 'per
> instruction'} it doesn't matter to the typical user. Additionally, because
> the reaction is rather temperature dependent it can be somewhat controlled.
> That is sped up or slowed down to almost a 'hibernation' point . . . I've
> used it as low as the mid 30's, which supposedly you can't do.
>
> If time is NOT a problem, and the surface is horizontal {so there is no
> slippage or 'curtaining'} I'd just wait. Especially as the weather is
> warming up. When it gets to the point you can't dent it with a finger nail,
> give it a couple of swipes with some sandpaper. If it still gums up, wait a
> bit longer and use a 'regular nail' for scratch testing. Use the time to
> make some small 'test batches' so you get comfortable with mixing {BE
> THROUGH - this is the MOST prevalent cause of problems}and application.
>
> When physically possible, sand and proceed, or sand and 'paint on' a thin
> cover coat of unthickened fresh epoxy and continue the project.
>
> If not this . . . then get yourself a stack of filter masks, a Tyvek suit, a
> couple of Surform tools & extra blades, belt sander & 'Planer' belts, a
> 4-1/2in surface grinder, and have at it.!!
>
> Regards & Good Luck,
> Ron Magen
> Backyard Boatshop
> {PS - I understand that MAS is quite a bit over-priced for what you get . .
> . and it's formulated relatively close to where I live}
> .
> <jaykchan.TakeThisOut@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1150299948.104132.202420@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com...
> > I would like to get some opinions on whether I should remove partially
> > cured epoxy in one large area of my deck.
> >
> > Due to my failure to follow instruction in mixing epoxy and failure to
> > do a test batch before using a new type of hardener, I had not
> > thoroughly mixed the epoxy long enough when I installed the core
> > material onto the deck. The result is that the epoxy cures very very
> > slowly:
> >
> > - After one day, I felt that the epoxy was still wet.
> >
> > - After three days, I still could use my thumb to dent the epoxy.
> >
> > - After ten days (today), it is solid enough that I cannot use my
> > thumb to dent it; but I still can use my finger nail to dent its
> > surface. And I definitely cannot sand it yet.
> >
> > What should I do?
> >
> > Should I wait another week or so to see if it may completely cure? I
> > can afford to wait because I can do something else while I wait; but I
> > am not sure if the epoxy will be strong enough even if it is seemingly
> > cured.
> >
> > Should I remove everything and start this over? Unfortunately, this
> > will be very labor intensive to remove the partially cured epoxy.
> >
> > The epoxy is from MAS and the hardener is MAS slow hardener. The brand
> > name may or may not matter.
> >
> > Jay Chan
> >
 >> Stay informed about: Remove or Not Remove Partially Cured Epoxy? 

jaykchan.TakeThisOut@hotmail.com wrote:

> Thanks for pointing this out. Sound like I have a hopeless case on my
> hand. OK, I just have to treat it as a learning experience.
>
> Jay Chan
>

The only times I've had problems like this have been on very humid days.
 >> Stay informed about: Remove or Not Remove Partially Cured Epoxy? 

Thanks for the suggestion of using an angle grinder with wire wheel to
remove uncured epoxy. I already have an angle grinder. I will look
for a wire wheel attachment. I may use it to remove most of the stuff,
and then use a ramdom oribital sander when I get close to the thin
inner skin of the deck.

Jay Chan

Capt. Geoffrey Thorpe wrote:
> <jaykchan.TakeThisOut@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1150386935.050324.291110@y41g2000cwy.googlegroups.com...
> > Glad to hear that there is some hope. OK, I will wait a week or two to
> > give it a chance. Meanwhile, I can always work on something else or go
> > fishing on a rental boat. If after two weeks my finger nail still can
> > make a dent on the epoxy, I will remove it.
> >
> > Also thanks for the suggestion of using a surface grinder. I will look
> > for it in home center.
> >
> > Jay Chan
>
> If you get a 4" (or so) angle grinder that runs at about 10,000 rpm and a
> wire wheel that is designed to go with it - it will make glass and epoxy
> disappear real fast and doesn't clog like sand paper or grinding disks. You
> can get a cup style brush or a wheel style brush - both work.
> I have a 4" Makita that runs at 11,000 rpm - Works great.
>
> Eye protection and all that... Make sure the wheel is rated for the grinder
> speed. Even the "correct" brush will throw wires regularly - stay protected.
> And, these things will remove flesh as fast as they remove glass...
>
> --
> Geoff
> The Sea Hawk at Wow Way d0t Com
> remove spaces and make the obvious substitutions to reply by mail
> When immigration is outlawed, only outlaws will immigrate.
 >> Stay informed about: Remove or Not Remove Partially Cured Epoxy? 

<jaykchan.RemoveThis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1150386935.050324.291110@y41g2000cwy.googlegroups.com...
> Glad to hear that there is some hope. OK, I will wait a week or two to
> give it a chance. Meanwhile, I can always work on something else or go
> fishing on a rental boat. If after two weeks my finger nail still can
> make a dent on the epoxy, I will remove it.
>
> Also thanks for the suggestion of using a surface grinder. I will look
> for it in home center.
>
> Jay Chan

If you get a 4" (or so) angle grinder that runs at about 10,000 rpm and a
wire wheel that is designed to go with it - it will make glass and epoxy
disappear real fast and doesn't clog like sand paper or grinding disks. You
can get a cup style brush or a wheel style brush - both work.
I have a 4" Makita that runs at 11,000 rpm - Works great.

Eye protection and all that... Make sure the wheel is rated for the grinder
speed. Even the "correct" brush will throw wires regularly - stay protected.
And, these things will remove flesh as fast as they remove glass...

--
Geoff
The Sea Hawk at Wow Way d0t Com
remove spaces and make the obvious substitutions to reply by mail
When immigration is outlawed, only outlaws will immigrate.
 >> Stay informed about: Remove or Not Remove Partially Cured Epoxy? 

You're a patient man, Jay! I've been following along as things have
progressed and am very glad to hear that your epoxy finally made the mark.
Note that even properly mixed epoxy takes something like 2 months or longer
to reach full strength, approaching the mark in an asymptotic way ...90% of
the strength within a few days, 100% of the strength in a couple of months.
But either way, glad to hear of your good results!

Brian



<jaykchan DeleteThis @hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1153357494.755792.111710@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com...
> After 45 days since I put the epoxy in place, the epoxy has _finally_
> cured completely. Seem like those two very hot days in the beginning
> of this week really helped the curing process. The outdoor temperature
> of those two days was 97 degree+, and the temperatur inside the boat
> cover probably was above 110 degree.
>
> Just try to let people know in case someone runs into the same
> situation as I was. Then he can decide whether he really wants to wait
> that long for the epoxy to cure, whether he should expect his local
> weather will help or hurt the curing process, and whether he should
> work on something else while he is waiting for the epoxy to cure.
>
> Jay Chan
>
>
> jaykchan DeleteThis @hotmail.com wrote:
>> Actually, I counted the number of days wrong. I should have said that
>> now is 32 days (instead of 22 days) after I put the epoxy in place.
>>
>> Jay Chan
>>
>> jaykc... DeleteThis @hotmail.com wrote:
>> > Now, this is 22 days after I put the epoxy in place. The epoxy is
>> > definitely more solid than on late June. I feel safe to have my hope
>> > high. The epoxy is curing very slowly. Luckily, I am working on
>> > mounting an air conditioner next to my boat; therefore, time is not
>> > wasted.
>> >
>> > Jay Chan
>> >
>> >
>> > jaykchan DeleteThis @hotmail.com wrote:
>> > > Yesterday, I checked the epoxy, and I found that it was noticably
>> > > more
>> > > solid than two or three days ago. I have a feeling that it will
>> > > eventually cure completely -- just very slowly.
>> > >
>> > > I have contacted the tech support of the epoxy manufacturer. He said
>> > > that the epoxy mostly likely will eventually cure because of the fact
>> > > that the curing is progressing. More importantly, he also said that
>> > > the cured epoxy will have a good bond despite the fact that the epoxy
>> > > will take much longer time to cure than normal. Therefore, I will
>> > > wait
>> > > a couple weeks for epoxy to cure completely.
>> > >
>> > > Jay Chan
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > Mik wrote:
>> > > > If I was you, I'd wait a couple of weeks til it seems to harden as
>> > > > much
>> > > > as possible. Then, I'd start scraping. Sicne it hasn't cured
>> > > > properly,
>> > > > you can try a heat gun to soften up the epoxy before scraping.
>> > > > Paint
>> > > > scrapers, window scrapers, utility knives, 40 grit sandpaper. Try
>> > > > everything, except a garden rake....
>> > > >
>> > > > Seriously. Especially since this is structural, I'd be removing
>> > > > all of
>> > > > the epoxy, down to bare wood, and starting over. cured epoxy is
>> > > > fantastic, but partially cured is a disaster waiting to happen.
>> > > > Why
>> > > > ruin a good boat over some bad epoxy??
>> > > >
>> > > > Mike
>> > > > Saskatoon, SK
>> > > >
>> > > > jaykchan DeleteThis @hotmail.com wrote:
>> > > > > Thanks for pointing this out. Sound like I have a hopeless case
>> > > > > on my
>> > > > > hand. OK, I just have to treat it as a learning experience.
>> > > > >
>> > > > > Jay Chan
>> > > > >
>> > > > >
>> > > > > derbyrm wrote:
>> > > > >
>> > > > >>I think there's some confusion between polyester resin and epoxy.
>> > > > >>
>> > > > >>As someone else pointed out, with polyester, the hardener is a
>> > > > >>catalyst/accelerator and the resin will eventually cure.
>> > > > >>
>> > > > >>As I understand epoxy, it is the combination of the chemicals in
>> > > > >>the resin
>> > > > >>and those in the hardener. Too few of the hardener molecules and
>> > > > >>you'll
>> > > > >>never end up with actual epoxy, only with a slurry of cured epoxy
>> > > > >>and
>> > > > >>uncured resin molecules looking for their mates. It will not be
>> > > > >>very
>> > > > >>strong.
>> > > > >>
>> > > > >>I'd suggest you start scraping.
>> > > > >>
>> > > > >>Roger (sorry)
>> > > > >>derbyrm@NOSPAMinsightbbNOSPAM.com
>> > > > >>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
>> > > > >>
>> > > > >><jaykchan DeleteThis @hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> > > > >>news:1150386935.050324.291110@y41g2000cwy.googlegroups.com...
>> > > > >>
>> > > > >>>Glad to hear that there is some hope. OK, I will wait a week or
>> > > > >>>two to
>> > > > >>>give it a chance. Meanwhile, I can always work on something
>> > > > >>>else or go
>> > > > >>>fishing on a rental boat. If after two weeks my finger nail
>> > > > >>>still can
>> > > > >>>make a dent on the epoxy, I will remove it.
>
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