Powder Coat or Paint

RW Salnick wrote:

> If it were me, I'd use a 2-part urethane on it. The finish is superb,
> and that stuff is *HARD*. Also, when patch/repairs are needed, it will
> be easier to match the existing finish.
>
> bob
>
> Rusty wrote:
>
>> I am having an aluminum dodger built for my sailboat. I want it to be
>> white when it's finished.
>>
>> The question is, should I have it powder coated or painted? Either is
>> possible, and not out of line for cost. I am looking for durability,
>> long-term looks, and ability to make minor repairs.
>>
>> Any thoughts either for or against each option?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Rusty
>>


Power coat can chip leaving water access under the film.

My preferred treatment for aluminum is Epi-Bond.

Two-part epoxy primer used in aircraft service.

Paint with two-part urethane after several weeks cure.


Richard
 >> Stay informed about: Powder Coat or Paint 

Do you have to etch before using this product?
"Richard Lamb" <cavelamb.DeleteThis@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:7tzBf.5889$vU2.1611@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
> RW Salnick wrote:
>
> > If it were me, I'd use a 2-part urethane on it. The finish is superb,
> > and that stuff is *HARD*. Also, when patch/repairs are needed, it will
> > be easier to match the existing finish.
> >
> > bob
> >
> > Rusty wrote:
> >
> >> I am having an aluminum dodger built for my sailboat. I want it to be
> >> white when it's finished.
> >>
> >> The question is, should I have it powder coated or painted? Either is
> >> possible, and not out of line for cost. I am looking for durability,
> >> long-term looks, and ability to make minor repairs.
> >>
> >> Any thoughts either for or against each option?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Rusty
> >>
>
>
> Power coat can chip leaving water access under the film.
>
> My preferred treatment for aluminum is Epi-Bond.
>
> Two-part epoxy primer used in aircraft service.
>
> Paint with two-part urethane after several weeks cure.
>
>
> Richard
 >> Stay informed about: Powder Coat or Paint 

MMC wrote:

> Do you have to etch before using this product?
> "Richard Lamb" <cavelamb.TakeThisOut@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:7tzBf.5889$vU2.1611@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
>
>>RW Salnick wrote:
>>
>>
>>>If it were me, I'd use a 2-part urethane on it. The finish is superb,
>>>and that stuff is *HARD*. Also, when patch/repairs are needed, it will
>>>be easier to match the existing finish.
>>>
>>>bob
>>>
>>>Rusty wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>I am having an aluminum dodger built for my sailboat. I want it to be
>>>>white when it's finished.
>>>>
>>>>The question is, should I have it powder coated or painted? Either is
>>>>possible, and not out of line for cost. I am looking for durability,
>>>>long-term looks, and ability to make minor repairs.
>>>>
>>>>Any thoughts either for or against each option?
>>>>
>>>>Thanks,
>>>>Rusty
>>>>
>>
>>
>>Power coat can chip leaving water access under the film.
>>
>>My preferred treatment for aluminum is Epi-Bond.
>>
>>Two-part epoxy primer used in aircraft service.
>>
>>Paint with two-part urethane after several weeks cure.
>>
>>
>>Richard
>
>
>
Of course you can etch first. It doesn't hurt anything.
But all it really needs is a good rub with scotchbrite
to clean the surfaces.

Mix epi-bond and catalyst - then add epoxy thinner to thin to
spraying consistency.

SPRAY the epi-bond rather than brush it.
It sets up too fast to flow out smooth and will show brush marks.

The stuff cures hard in less than an hour.
But it will continue to cure for quite a while.

I'd wait a few weeks before final painting.
Dunno if that's necessary or not, but not bad advice.

A quart kit will probably cover your dodger.

Try it, you'll like it...


Richard
 >> Stay informed about: Powder Coat or Paint 

Rusty wrote:
> I am having an aluminum dodger built for my sailboat. I want it to be white
> when it's finished.
>
> The question is, should I have it powder coated or painted? Either is
> possible, and not out of line for cost. I am looking for durability,
> long-term looks, and ability to make minor repairs.
>
> Any thoughts either for or against each option?
>
> Thanks,
> Rusty
>
>
White anodizing
 >> Stay informed about: Powder Coat or Paint 

Thanks Richard.
I'm not the original poster, but I do want to paint my sticks and this is
helpful.
MMC
"Richard Lamb" <cavelamb.DeleteThis@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:faQBf.202$Nv2.80@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net...
> MMC wrote:
>
> > Do you have to etch before using this product?
> > "Richard Lamb" <cavelamb.DeleteThis@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> > news:7tzBf.5889$vU2.1611@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
> >
> >>RW Salnick wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>If it were me, I'd use a 2-part urethane on it. The finish is superb,
> >>>and that stuff is *HARD*. Also, when patch/repairs are needed, it will
> >>>be easier to match the existing finish.
> >>>
> >>>bob
> >>>
> >>>Rusty wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>I am having an aluminum dodger built for my sailboat. I want it to be
> >>>>white when it's finished.
> >>>>
> >>>>The question is, should I have it powder coated or painted? Either is
> >>>>possible, and not out of line for cost. I am looking for durability,
> >>>>long-term looks, and ability to make minor repairs.
> >>>>
> >>>>Any thoughts either for or against each option?
> >>>>
> >>>>Thanks,
> >>>>Rusty
> >>>>
> >>
> >>
> >>Power coat can chip leaving water access under the film.
> >>
> >>My preferred treatment for aluminum is Epi-Bond.
> >>
> >>Two-part epoxy primer used in aircraft service.
> >>
> >>Paint with two-part urethane after several weeks cure.
> >>
> >>
> >>Richard
> >
> >
> >
> Of course you can etch first. It doesn't hurt anything.
> But all it really needs is a good rub with scotchbrite
> to clean the surfaces.
>
> Mix epi-bond and catalyst - then add epoxy thinner to thin to
> spraying consistency.
>
> SPRAY the epi-bond rather than brush it.
> It sets up too fast to flow out smooth and will show brush marks.
>
> The stuff cures hard in less than an hour.
> But it will continue to cure for quite a while.
>
> I'd wait a few weeks before final painting.
> Dunno if that's necessary or not, but not bad advice.
>
> A quart kit will probably cover your dodger.
>
> Try it, you'll like it...
>
>
> Richard
 >> Stay informed about: Powder Coat or Paint 

Richard Lamb wrote:
> MMC wrote:
>
>> Do you have to etch before using this product?
>> "Richard Lamb" <cavelamb.DeleteThis@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>> news:7tzBf.5889$vU2.1611@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
>>
>>> RW Salnick wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> If it were me, I'd use a 2-part urethane on it. The finish is superb,
>>>> and that stuff is *HARD*. Also, when patch/repairs are needed, it will
>>>> be easier to match the existing finish.
>>>>
>>>> bob
>>>>
>>>> Rusty wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> I am having an aluminum dodger built for my sailboat. I want it to be
>>>>> white when it's finished.
>>>>>
>>>>> The question is, should I have it powder coated or painted? Either is
>>>>> possible, and not out of line for cost. I am looking for durability,
>>>>> long-term looks, and ability to make minor repairs.
>>>>>
>>>>> Any thoughts either for or against each option?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>> Rusty
>>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Power coat can chip leaving water access under the film.
>>>
>>> My preferred treatment for aluminum is Epi-Bond.
>>>
>>> Two-part epoxy primer used in aircraft service.
>>>
>>> Paint with two-part urethane after several weeks cure.
>>>
>>>
>>> Richard
>>
>>
>>
>>
> Of course you can etch first. It doesn't hurt anything.
> But all it really needs is a good rub with scotchbrite
> to clean the surfaces.
>
> Mix epi-bond and catalyst - then add epoxy thinner to thin to
> spraying consistency.
>
> SPRAY the epi-bond rather than brush it.
> It sets up too fast to flow out smooth and will show brush marks.
>
> The stuff cures hard in less than an hour.
> But it will continue to cure for quite a while.
>
> I'd wait a few weeks before final painting.
> Dunno if that's necessary or not, but not bad advice.
>
> A quart kit will probably cover your dodger.
>
> Try it, you'll like it...
>
>
> Richard

Richard,

Would epi-bond + LPU be a sound way to refinish aluminum masts or
somethin' else ?

What does it cost and where have you gotten the best price ?

Thanks,
Courtney
 >> Stay informed about: Powder Coat or Paint 

Richard Lamb wrote:
> MMC wrote:
>
>> Do you have to etch before using this product?
>> "Richard Lamb" <cavelamb DeleteThis @earthlink.net> wrote in message
>> news:7tzBf.5889$vU2.1611@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
>>
>>> RW Salnick wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> If it were me, I'd use a 2-part urethane on it. The finish is superb,
>>>> and that stuff is *HARD*. Also, when patch/repairs are needed, it will
>>>> be easier to match the existing finish.
>>>>
>>>> bob
>>>>
>>>> Rusty wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> I am having an aluminum dodger built for my sailboat. I want it to be
>>>>> white when it's finished.
>>>>>
>>>>> The question is, should I have it powder coated or painted? Either is
>>>>> possible, and not out of line for cost. I am looking for durability,
>>>>> long-term looks, and ability to make minor repairs.
>>>>>
>>>>> Any thoughts either for or against each option?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>> Rusty
>>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Power coat can chip leaving water access under the film.
>>>
>>> My preferred treatment for aluminum is Epi-Bond.
>>>
>>> Two-part epoxy primer used in aircraft service.
>>>
>>> Paint with two-part urethane after several weeks cure.
>>>
>>>
>>> Richard
>>
>>
>>
>>
> Of course you can etch first. It doesn't hurt anything.
> But all it really needs is a good rub with scotchbrite
> to clean the surfaces.
>
> Mix epi-bond and catalyst - then add epoxy thinner to thin to
> spraying consistency.
>
> SPRAY the epi-bond rather than brush it.
> It sets up too fast to flow out smooth and will show brush marks.
>
> The stuff cures hard in less than an hour.
> But it will continue to cure for quite a while.
>
> I'd wait a few weeks before final painting.
> Dunno if that's necessary or not, but not bad advice.
>
> A quart kit will probably cover your dodger.
>
> Try it, you'll like it...
>
>
> Richard

Apologies, but I neglected to ask......

Would epi-bond also equally satisfactory for a stainless bimini frame
and would it look the same as on aluminum ?

Thanks again,

Courtney
 >> Stay informed about: Powder Coat or Paint 

Courtney Thomas wrote:

> Richard Lamb wrote:
>
>> MMC wrote:
>>
>>> Do you have to etch before using this product?
>>> "Richard Lamb" <cavelamb.TakeThisOut@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>>> news:7tzBf.5889$vU2.1611@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
>>>
>>>> RW Salnick wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> If it were me, I'd use a 2-part urethane on it. The finish is superb,
>>>>> and that stuff is *HARD*. Also, when patch/repairs are needed, it
>>>>> will
>>>>> be easier to match the existing finish.
>>>>>
>>>>> bob
>>>>>
>>>>> Rusty wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> I am having an aluminum dodger built for my sailboat. I want it to be
>>>>>> white when it's finished.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The question is, should I have it powder coated or painted? Either is
>>>>>> possible, and not out of line for cost. I am looking for durability,
>>>>>> long-term looks, and ability to make minor repairs.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Any thoughts either for or against each option?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>> Rusty
>>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Power coat can chip leaving water access under the film.
>>>>
>>>> My preferred treatment for aluminum is Epi-Bond.
>>>>
>>>> Two-part epoxy primer used in aircraft service.
>>>>
>>>> Paint with two-part urethane after several weeks cure.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Richard
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> Of course you can etch first. It doesn't hurt anything.
>> But all it really needs is a good rub with scotchbrite
>> to clean the surfaces.
>>
>> Mix epi-bond and catalyst - then add epoxy thinner to thin to
>> spraying consistency.
>>
>> SPRAY the epi-bond rather than brush it.
>> It sets up too fast to flow out smooth and will show brush marks.
>>
>> The stuff cures hard in less than an hour.
>> But it will continue to cure for quite a while.
>>
>> I'd wait a few weeks before final painting.
>> Dunno if that's necessary or not, but not bad advice.
>>
>> A quart kit will probably cover your dodger.
>>
>> Try it, you'll like it...
>>
>>
>> Richard
>
>
> Apologies, but I neglected to ask......
>
> Would epi-bond also equally satisfactory for a stainless bimini frame
> and would it look the same as on aluminum ?
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Courtney

Probably so, Courtney. We use it on 4130, alumimum, stainless, ???

Ought to look the same baring any surface texture differences in the
metals.

Richard
 >> Stay informed about: Powder Coat or Paint 

Richard Lamb wrote:
> Courtney Thomas wrote:
>
>> Richard Lamb wrote:
>>
>>> MMC wrote:
>>>
>>>> Do you have to etch before using this product?
>>>> "Richard Lamb" <cavelamb.TakeThisOut@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>>>> news:7tzBf.5889$vU2.1611@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
>>>>
>>>>> RW Salnick wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> If it were me, I'd use a 2-part urethane on it. The finish is
>>>>>> superb,
>>>>>> and that stuff is *HARD*. Also, when patch/repairs are needed, it
>>>>>> will
>>>>>> be easier to match the existing finish.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> bob
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Rusty wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I am having an aluminum dodger built for my sailboat. I want it
>>>>>>> to be
>>>>>>> white when it's finished.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The question is, should I have it powder coated or painted?
>>>>>>> Either is
>>>>>>> possible, and not out of line for cost. I am looking for durability,
>>>>>>> long-term looks, and ability to make minor repairs.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Any thoughts either for or against each option?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>>> Rusty
>>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Power coat can chip leaving water access under the film.
>>>>>
>>>>> My preferred treatment for aluminum is Epi-Bond.
>>>>>
>>>>> Two-part epoxy primer used in aircraft service.
>>>>>
>>>>> Paint with two-part urethane after several weeks cure.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Richard
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Of course you can etch first. It doesn't hurt anything.
>>> But all it really needs is a good rub with scotchbrite
>>> to clean the surfaces.
>>>
>>> Mix epi-bond and catalyst - then add epoxy thinner to thin to
>>> spraying consistency.
>>>
>>> SPRAY the epi-bond rather than brush it.
>>> It sets up too fast to flow out smooth and will show brush marks.
>>>
>>> The stuff cures hard in less than an hour.
>>> But it will continue to cure for quite a while.
>>>
>>> I'd wait a few weeks before final painting.
>>> Dunno if that's necessary or not, but not bad advice.
>>>
>>> A quart kit will probably cover your dodger.
>>>
>>> Try it, you'll like it...
>>>
>>>
>>> Richard
>>
>>
>>
>> Apologies, but I neglected to ask......
>>
>> Would epi-bond also equally satisfactory for a stainless bimini frame
>> and would it look the same as on aluminum ?
>>
>> Thanks again,
>>
>> Courtney
>
>
> Probably so, Courtney. We use it on 4130, alumimum, stainless, ???
>
> Ought to look the same baring any surface texture differences in the
> metals.
>
> Richard

A final question....I don't know how my 50' aluminum mast was previouly
finished, but to obtain durable results, how should it now be prepared,
given that it now has irregular areas of 'peeling' and coating absence
due of abrasion, etc. ?

Should it be taken back to bare metal [whew !] or what, and if yes, what
method would be easiest and which the least expensive, hopefully the
same

Gratefully,
Courtney
 >> Stay informed about: Powder Coat or Paint 

Courtney Thomas wrote:

>
> A final question....I don't know how my 50' aluminum mast was previouly
> finished, but to obtain durable results, how should it now be prepared,
> given that it now has irregular areas of 'peeling' and coating absence
> due of abrasion, etc. ?
>
> Should it be taken back to bare metal [whew !] or what, and if yes, what
> method would be easiest and which the least expensive, hopefully the
> same
>
> Gratefully,
> Courtney

That one is a little outside my crystal ball's dynamic range.
I'd have to look at it to make any real recommendations.

If the present finish is flaking or chipping, it would have to be
cleaned up before painting. Or if the surface is painted with something
that will dissolve with lacquer thinner?

For an anodized finish, I'd probably just scotch bite and spray...

Richard
 >> Stay informed about: Powder Coat or Paint 

Richard Lamb wrote:
> Courtney Thomas wrote:
>
> >
> > A final question....I don't know how my 50' aluminum mast was previouly
> > finished, but to obtain durable results, how should it now be prepared,
> > given that it now has irregular areas of 'peeling' and coating absence
> > due of abrasion, etc. ?
> >
> > Should it be taken back to bare metal [whew !] or what, and if yes, what
> > method would be easiest and which the least expensive, hopefully the
> > same
> >
> > Gratefully,
> > Courtney
>
> That one is a little outside my crystal ball's dynamic range.
> I'd have to look at it to make any real recommendations.
>
> If the present finish is flaking or chipping, it would have to be
> cleaned up before painting. Or if the surface is painted with something
> that will dissolve with lacquer thinner?
>
> For an anodized finish, I'd probably just scotch bite and spray...
>
> Richard

Richard,

The only thing you have to look out for with powder coating is if the
metal is heat treated. If the metal was heat treated the baking part of
the powder coating process can cause big problems with the integrity of
the metal. This happened on several occasions to people who had scuba
tanks powder coated, they blew up. If their's no heat treating involved
it's probably not a problem.
 >> Stay informed about: Powder Coat or Paint 

>From what I remember reading of it the combination of temperature and
baking time weakened the tanks. They were not pressurized at the time,
the valves were removed. They ruptured during their first refill after
coating, SCUBA tanks are placed in water during filling, so if they go
their not like a bomb. Supposedly makes a hell of a noise and lots of
water thrown all over the place. But the energy is disapated in the
water.
 >> Stay informed about: Powder Coat or Paint