Need a Good Book on Basic Wiring in a Boat For Beginner

> The most valuable information on the ANCOR site are the charts showing
> the diameter of wire to use based on distance and load. If you do
> everything else right, but screw this up,
> you won't be pleased with the results of your rewiring.

Thanks for the good point. I will keep an note on the use of correct
wiring sizes and colors.

> As far as a "diagram" goes, you're unlikely to find one. Every boat has
> its own challenges.

I am kind of surprised to hear this. A diagram for each typical layout
should go a long way to explain where everything is, such as a diagram
for a center console, a diagram for a bowrider, a diagram for a small
sailing boat...etc.

I am reading a great book called "Royce's Powerboating Illustrated 6th
Edition". It has many pictures and diagrams on many topics on boating
all condensed in a small (but thick) book. Unfortunately, it is not
specific for wiring. Therefore, there is still room for more specific
info on wiring. This is the reason why I am looking for a specific
book for wiring.

> But, let's figure out how to "draw a diagram: for your boat.
>
> IIRC, you have a reasonably small boat. Let's say that you were going
> to install a VHF radio, a depth sounder, an AM/FM CD player, and a
> chart plotter. Four items.
>
> You will need to plan a cable run from your house battery to your helm
> area. Tuck the wire up out of the way, away from bilgewater. You will
> want to plan a route that is as direct as possible, but protects the
> wiring and keeps it out from underfoot. One nice aspect of the four
> items noted above is that they will all be installed, typically, very
> close to the wheel.
>
> Look up the amp draw for each electronic item, (will be in the product
> specs), and add them together. You're likely to be running all four of
> those specfic items at once, and even if you thought you weren't you
> would want to be able to do so while retaining adequate voltage. Now
> measure the distance from the house battery to the point where you will
> install either a panel (highly recommended) or a buss bar. (Be sure to
> include any bends the cable will take- follow the exat route when you
> measure). The panel is a better choice as you can switch each item on
> or off individually. You will run your red wire to the panel or buss
> bar.
>
> Now that you know the load and the distance to the panel, check out the
> chart on the ancor site and choose a marine wire that will minimize
> voltage loss. It may be a larger size than you would have otherwise
> imagined. If you can, go up a size or two in that cable between the
> house battery and the panel, and get a panel with an extra couple of
> switches. They way electronics are evoloving, you may want to add
> something in a couple of years that hasn't even been invented yet.
>
> Once your panel is in place, you will want to site a buss bar for the
> black ground wires near the installation. One again, use a marine wire
> capable of handling the total amperage based on the load and the total
> distance from the house battery to the ground buss- and back.
>
> You can use smaller wire to connect each electronic device to your
> panel or buss. The distance you are working with here is the distance
> from the panel or buss to the actual devices. Use the Ancor chart. When
> in doubt, go up a size.
>
> If your switch panel isn't fused with circuit breakers, you will want
> to install an in-line fuse on the red wire between the panel and the
> individual items. Your product installation data sheets will specify
> the rating needed for the individual fuses. If you use a buss bar
> instead of a fused panel, count on installing the in-line fuses as
> there will be no other ciruit protection between the battery and the
> load.
>
> So while there aren't a lot of wiring diagrams for specific boats
> kicking around, you can successfully wire your electronics by using the
> steps above, (I didn't repeat the obvious cautions about using properly
> crimped connections, etc). When you're done, you can draw your own
> wiring diagram for the good ship "Carpe Diem", (or what not), but you
> won't need one for your own purposes as you will be intimately familiar
> with just how the system works.

Thanks a lot for the overview of how to design a wiring for a small
boat like mine. I cannot say enough to thank you. With this info and
the info from the books that I will get, I have confidence that I will
be able to add additional wiring to my boat for the instruments that I
will add to the boat.

Mine is probably an easier boat to wire than what you have described
because the batteries are located inside the center console where all
the electronic instruments are going to be nearby (instead of at the
back near the motor). I just have to check the wire between the
batteries and the motor to make sure it is the right size for the long
length that it must cross between the batteries and the motor.

Thanks again.

Jay Chan
 >> Stay informed about: Need a Good Book on Basic Wiring in a Boat For Beginner 

On Fri, 18 Nov 2005 08:02:44 -0800, chuckgould.chuck wrote:

>
> jaykchan.RemoveThis@hotmail.com wrote:
ll good points. I appreciate your effort in preparing that list of
>> good tips.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Jay Chan
>
>
> As far as a "diagram" goes, you're unlikely to find one. Every boat has
> its own challenges.
>
> But, let's figure out how to "draw a diagram: for your boat.
>
Chuck implies a Very Good Tip here: DRAW YOUR OWN DIAGRAM AS YOU'RE
WIRING. And label and/or colour-code your wires. That way when your VHF
packs it in and you're looking at the rat's-nest under the console, you'll
know where to look.

Lloyd
 >> Stay informed about: Need a Good Book on Basic Wiring in a Boat For Beginner 

On 18 Nov 2005 08:02:44 -0800, chuckgould.chuck.TakeThisOut@gmail.com wrote:

> Let's say that you were going
>to install a VHF radio, a depth sounder, an AM/FM CD player, and a
>chart plotter. Four items.

====================================

Lets not forget bilge pump(s), running lights, cabin lights, lighter
plug outlet, etc.

Most boats, even a small boat, will probably have at least eight
circuits, which should each have their own circuit breaker on the main
panel.
 >> Stay informed about: Need a Good Book on Basic Wiring in a Boat For Beginner 

> Chuck implies a Very Good Tip here: DRAW YOUR OWN DIAGRAM AS YOU'RE
> WIRING. And label and/or colour-code your wires. That way when your VHF
> packs it in and you're looking at the rat's-nest under the console, you'll
> know where to look.

Yes, I know. I meant to say that a sample diagram goes a long way in
explaining to a beginner how everything fits together. Then the
beginner has a way to relate to.

Jay Chan
 >> Stay informed about: Need a Good Book on Basic Wiring in a Boat For Beginner 

> > Let's say that you were going
> >to install a VHF radio, a depth sounder, an AM/FM CD player, and a
> >chart plotter. Four items.
>
> Lets not forget bilge pump(s), running lights, cabin lights, lighter
> plug outlet, etc.
>
> Most boats, even a small boat, will probably have at least eight
> circuits, which should each have their own circuit breaker on the main
> panel.

Let me start counting of what I have and what I want to add:
1. Motor starter
2. Bilge pump
3. Bow light
4. Light near the stern
5. Interior light for inside of the center console
6. 12-volt outlet (not sure what it is for?)
7. VHF radio
8. Depth sounder
9. GPS

Seem like I definitely need a big panel for all these stuff even
without a AM/FM radio.

Jay Chan
 >> Stay informed about: Need a Good Book on Basic Wiring in a Boat For Beginner 

<jaykchan DeleteThis @hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1132369128.292555.289300@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
>> > Let's say that you were going
>> >to install a VHF radio, a depth sounder, an AM/FM CD player, and a
>> >chart plotter. Four items.
>>
>> Lets not forget bilge pump(s), running lights, cabin lights, lighter
>> plug outlet, etc.
>>
>> Most boats, even a small boat, will probably have at least eight
>> circuits, which should each have their own circuit breaker on the main
>> panel.
>
> Let me start counting of what I have and what I want to add:
> 1. Motor starter
> 2. Bilge pump
> 3. Bow light
> 4. Light near the stern
> 5. Interior light for inside of the center console
> 6. 12-volt outlet (not sure what it is for?)
> 7. VHF radio
> 8. Depth sounder
> 9. GPS
>
> Seem like I definitely need a big panel for all these stuff even
> without a AM/FM radio.
>
> Jay Chan
>

12 volt outlet. Actually a couple is nice. I plug in my portable VHF to
charge it, and the cell phone at times.
 >> Stay informed about: Need a Good Book on Basic Wiring in a Boat For Beginner 

On Sat, 19 Nov 2005 07:07:45 GMT, "Bill McKee"
<bmckeespam.RemoveThis@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

>12 volt outlet. Actually a couple is nice. I plug in my portable VHF to
>charge it, and the cell phone at times.

=====================================

All that, plus small inverter for running laptop, spotlight, portable
GPS, and the list goes on. I agree that a couple of outlets is nice
but you can also buy splitter cords that create a second outlet.
 >> Stay informed about: Need a Good Book on Basic Wiring in a Boat For Beginner 

>>6. 12-volt outlet (not sure what it is for?)

> A blender, of course...... daiquiris anyone?

A hand held spotlight can come in handy at times also.

-rick-
 >> Stay informed about: Need a Good Book on Basic Wiring in a Boat For Beginner 

"Wayne.B" <waynebatrecdotboats DeleteThis @hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:hivun1ti6ubjr9ne8in1let4ualugabls3@4ax.com...
> On Sat, 19 Nov 2005 07:07:45 GMT, "Bill McKee"
> <bmckeespam DeleteThis @ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>
>>12 volt outlet. Actually a couple is nice. I plug in my portable VHF to
>>charge it, and the cell phone at times.
>
> =====================================
>
> All that, plus small inverter for running laptop, spotlight, portable
> GPS, and the list goes on. I agree that a couple of outlets is nice
> but you can also buy splitter cords that create a second outlet.
>

I have a splitter, but it would be much nicer to just have a couple. built
in. Just like my wifes S10 Blazer as opposed to my Expedition that had 1
extra power outlet besides the ciggy lighter. I also have a 12 V outlet in
the back to hook up the live bait bag.
 >> Stay informed about: Need a Good Book on Basic Wiring in a Boat For Beginner 

> If you are using the correct heat shrink tubing or terminal
> connections, they have a heat activated glue. If there is any "tiny
> gap around the heat-shrink tube and the cable" you have done something
> wrong or used an inferior product. Ditto any heavy lugs that have
> "holes" or gaps in the metal when properly swaged and sealed with heat
> shrink.

I see. This means I should look for the right shrink tubing that has
heat activated glue. Thanks for the tip.

Jay Chan
 >> Stay informed about: Need a Good Book on Basic Wiring in a Boat For Beginner 

> All that, plus small inverter for running laptop, spotlight, portable
> GPS, and the list goes on. I agree that a couple of outlets is nice
> but you can also buy splitter cords that create a second outlet.

Good to know that the 12-volt outlet will have a lot of use. Thanks.

The other newsgroup member also mentioned about its use for running a
live-bait well; this sounds exactly something that I will want to add
to my boat.

Jay Chan
 >> Stay informed about: Need a Good Book on Basic Wiring in a Boat For Beginner 

> >Let me start counting of what I have and what I want to add:
> >1. Motor starter
> Possibly not fused.

You are probably right. The motor itself already has a fuse inside the
motor for the starter. I assume we don't need another fuse for the
same thing in the panel. I don't know for sure because I am still
reviewing the wiring.

> >2. Bilge pump
> Possibly fused separately and not connected to the main breaker... but
> directly to the battery.

You are exactly right. Although the panel in the boat has a slot for
bilge pump, the slot is not connecting to anything. The wiring for the
bilge pump actually goes directly to the battery switch and bypassing
the panel.

> >6. 12-volt outlet (not sure what it is for?)
> A blender, of course...... daiquiris anyone?

May be for a live-baits well that I will add to my boat

Jay Chan
 >> Stay informed about: Need a Good Book on Basic Wiring in a Boat For Beginner 

> >> >2. Bilge pump
> >> Possibly fused separately and not connected to the main breaker... but
> >> directly to the battery.
> >
> >You are exactly right. Although the panel in the boat has a slot for
> >bilge pump, the slot is not connecting to anything. The wiring for the
> >bilge pump actually goes directly to the battery switch and bypassing
> >the panel.
> >
>
> You probably should have two feeds to the bilge pump. One, automatic,
> through a float switch that is connected directly to the battery. The
> other wire should go from the battery to a switch at the console
> (appropriate fusing employed) and thence to the bilge pump. Thus, you
> have an automatic bilge pump with a manual override.

Yes, indeed the boat is supposed to have both automatic and manual.
But the manual doesn't work. This is one of the reason why I need to
review the wiring in my boat.

Jay Chan
 >> Stay informed about: Need a Good Book on Basic Wiring in a Boat For Beginner