Jack,
Thanks for the diagnostics. I'm leery of opening that particular can of
worms just yet as I could, and probably would, induce even more problems.
The fact that the bottom segment is blinking leads me to think the assembly
may believe I'm real low on fuel. I did look at the gauge and all the
exposed metal, e.g contacts, are shiny, no sign of oxidation. I'd like to
know what kind of data the sender unit sends to an LCD type of display. Is
it just resistance or capacitance or what. In other words could I simulate
it at the sender unit wiring by causing a short or open or some specific
value of impedance. If I could do that without risking damaging the gauge
that might point to the culprit. But, between being brainwashed about ESD
damage and fear of destroying wafers and PCBs I'm taking a slow approach.
Again, thanks for the suggestion. I may try it yet.
Shack
"Jack Erbes" <jackerbes DeleteThis @adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:mtWdnamnKpCD7ijfRVn-vw@adelphia.com...
> Shack wrote:
>
>> 225 Yamaha with LCD gauge for voltages, time, trip odometer and fuel
>> quantity. The bottom, of about eight, fuel quantity LCD segment blinks
>> continuously even though there is 1/4 to 1/2 tank full of gas. The wiring
>> I
>> accessed was OK for continuity and ground. I'm thinking it's time to try
>> a
>> sending unit. Before I spend the $80 or so for it are there any other
>> things
>> I might try looking at? TIA
>
> Since that is more or less "disposable" at this point, try this.
>
> Those LCD displays typically make contact with a number of contact spots
> on a PCB. The contact points on the LCD display (the piece of glass with
> sandwiched segments) are held in contact with the spots on the PCB and
> that is how the segments are activated. If that gets a little dirty or
> oxidized, the segments won't work.
>
> If you can (carefully) disassemble the gage and identify the points of
> contact, it may be that a little cleaning will get them working again. Use
> a Q-Tip and Isopropyl alcohol to clean the contact spots on the PCB and
> also slide an alcohol wetted Q-Tip along the edge of the LCD that touches
> the contacts. That edge of the LCD may look like (in an edge view) like
> two thin sheets of something dark with a thin sheet or pinkish rubber or
> silicone separating them.
>
> If the glass panel is stuck down into a socket type mount, try sliding it
> out and cleaning down in the socket (toothpick and paper towel) and on any
> contact edge or obvious contact points.
>
> For more obvious surface corrosion, one of those old typewriter ink
> erasers that are slightly abrasive (use it gently!) may be helpful for
> cleaning.
>
> Put it all back together and it may work.
>
> I have to clean the contact points on the LCD display on my venerable old
> Fluke 79 multi-meter every three of four years when the upper half of the
> segments start dimming. This is pretty simple to do and, after cleaning,
> the display is as dark, distinct, and crisp as it was when new. It is
> like welcoming an old friend back from a near death experience. :>) And
> I usually put in a new 9V battery while I have it open but the battery
> alone will not resolve the dimming display issues.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Jack
>
> --
> Jack Erbes in Ellsworth, Maine, USA - jackerbes at adelphia dot net
> (also receiving email at jacker at midmaine.com) >> Stay informed about: Fuel quantity indicator blinking