Fiberglassing over wood?

"John" writes:

<snip>
 > I planed them down to 1" thick and put a tongue and grove on them. I am
now
 > in the process of gluing them together.

Not sure I'd do that, seems maintaining a gap, say 1/8"-1/4" between planks
to accomadate expansion would bew a better solution.

 > I would like your advice on what to do next. I intended on covering them
 > with polyester cloth and polyester resin.

Polyester makes a lousy glue, wouldn't do it not only for that reason but it
won't accomodate the expansion/contraction of the wood with the change in
seasons.

 > I have only used epoxy in the past, but figure polyester will be the
better
 > choice because it is UV tolerant.

I'm an epoxy shop, but would'nt use it for the reasons already stated.

 > Does this make any sense, or am I missing something such as compatibility
of
 > materials.

IMHO, you are, see above for reasons.

 > Any advice would be appreciated.

Since Glenn has already been to the movie, read his post.

HTH

Lew<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Fiberglassing over wood? 

Nothing crazy about using your own two hands and materials left lying about.

I agree, fiberglassing will not work. but why bother? It's not going to rot
anytime soon. Finish it with a good stain and seal it with may coats of
spar varnish (if it will stick to
pressure treated). I have encapusulated pressure treated with expoy but
that could be
expensive.

The Yankess here in Connecticut say:

Use it up.
Wear it out.
Make it do,
or do without.

Good Luck


 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Fiberglassing over wood? 

"John" (John@john.com) writes:
 > This is slightly off topic since I building a swim platform rather than a
 > boat, but they use the same materials and both float...

don't use tounge and groove. have yoyu ever see what happens to T&G
hardwood floors when they get wet? they swell and rise inte wierd non-flat
shapes. exterior flooring needs the gap between the boards. when laying
exterior wood floors lay the wood outside up so the edges won't cup
upwards. by "outside up" is meant the outside of the tree from which the
wood is cut should be the top side of the floor. look at the end of the
boards and make sure the tree rings are higest in the centre of the board.
if not turn the board over.

polyester resin may or may not adhere sufficiently to the wood floor, but
if you are leaving expansion gaps you don't want the resin adhering to the
flooring. if you want a fibreglass swim platform I'd make it like an
upside down boat, or an upside down fibreglass box srewed to a floating
wood frame. it will be heavy and cost more than a stright wooden swim
platform. another thing to consider is making a fibreglass sheet separate
from the wood frame and then attach it to the wood floor with edge strips
so the wood is free to move underneath teh floor. you can put a thin
sheet on and then build it up with more layers. the polyester will have to
be protected from the sun with paint. I don't know if tinting the
poylester white with titatium oxide will keep the sun from breaking down the
resin. On boats gelcoat is used to protect the resin.

on the whole I don't think fibreglass flooring is a good idea but who
knows?
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 >> Stay informed about: Fiberglassing over wood? 

You will be glad to know I have given up on the idea of fiberglassing the
swim platform.

Now I am thinking about using a polyurethane paint intended for truck
bedliners. The manufacturer says it will accomodate the wood movement
just fine, but recommends I use a primer first because it doesn't still all
that well to PT.

Thanks.
 >> Stay informed about: Fiberglassing over wood? 

If it is good wood, show it off. I'd do this:

Quarter-round the sides which will be on the edge of the platform.
Drill the screw holes
Use a low viscosity epoxy on the planks to seal the wood, concentrating on
the end grain and screw holes (just don't fill them up). You can leave the
bottoms unsealed to let the wood breathe.
Sand between the epoxy and all varnish coats, of course.
Varnish with an outdoor/marine varnish.
Mount with stainless screw or bronze nails if you are really going for the
nautical look.

Glue the floats on with foam caulk. It fills gaps, sticks like crazy, and
is compatible with Styrofoam.

If it isn't pretty, I'd make a fiberglass "shower cap" like a Tupperware
lid:

If you are going to cover it, why not just use plywood and save your lumber?
Either way, here is a method.

Assemble the platform top, cover it with plastic, then cover it with glass
and enough resin to just wet out the cloth, leaving a non-skid pattern.
After this sets, use a roller to apply gel coat. Trim the edges and voila!



"John" <John.RemoveThis@john.com> wrote in message
news:n4TXc.2543$yq6.60@news01.roc.ny...
 > You will be glad to know I have given up on the idea of fiberglassing the
 > swim platform.
 >
 > Now I am thinking about using a polyurethane paint intended for truck
 > bedliners. The manufacturer says it will accomodate the wood movement
 > just fine, but recommends I use a primer first because it doesn't still
 > all
 > that well to PT.
 >
 > Thanks.
 >
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Fiberglassing over wood?