Evinrude outboard question

<dh_ld DeleteThis @nomail.com> wrote in message
news:28qh01h4ngueb55grk43k28ge7jik9kne1@4ax.com...
 >I have a 1979 115hp Evinrude outboard. We're
 > trying to change the impeller. We removed a
 > bolt which held the top of a shaft in a bracket
 > in the top part of the motor, then removed 5
 > bolts from the lower end and tried to drop it down,
 > but it is stuck somehow. Can anyone offer any
 > advice on this, and/or know of a place online
 > where there's a diagram or explanation of how
 > to change an impeller?
 >
 > Thank you for any help!
 > David

Get a service manual for the engine. There is an entire procedure to follow,
including the proper torque specifications for mounting the new or old water
pump. Too much pressure will either break the housing or cause premature
wear and/or failure of the pump. And as Don stated, there are many more
items to consider, including using 2-stroke oil or similar when installing
the impeller in the housing.

Your service manual should also show you the signs of wear in the impeller
and other related fixtures including the housing.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Evinrude outboard question 

basskisser wrote:

 > There's a boat underneath the trim tab. The trim tab looks like a
 > little vertical wing, and it makes the boat track straight. Mark it's
 > location prior to removing it.
 >

Well, actually a "bolt" underneath the trim tab And yes, I make a lot of
typos in my posts as well, so I'm not making fun of your freudian slip.

Back to the other posters question about changing the water pump impeller:

If you haven't done this before its a good idea to buy one of those shop
manuals for your motor. Most boat stores have one.

Also, in addition to the impeller, there are a couple of steel plates and
a gasket or two that you probably need to replace if the impeller has shelled.

To remove the lower unit you'll need to remove _all_ of the bolts including the
one under the trim tab, and disconnect the shift shaft linkage. If its been a
while since the lower unit has been pulled, it still may be stuck by the alignment
pins or drive shaft. Once you are sure that you've removed all of the bolts, use
a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet to gently tap on the lower unit. Be ready
to catch it when it breaks loose. The unit is made of aluminum, so tap _gently_
to avoid damaging it. When it starts to break free, you may be able to insert a
large flat bladed screwdriver between the lower unit and downhousing to pry it free,
but do it carefully, or you'll damage it. The aluminum is pretty soft.

Now that you've got the lower unit off, the water pump is visible at the bottom of
the drive shaft, and you can take out the screws and remove the top cap and impeller.
Best bet is to buy a rebuild kit since it includes the gaskets, and the metal plates,
as well as the impeller. If the steel is scratched up it will eat up your new
impeller pretty quickly. If the drive shaft is corroded you will probably have
to use emery cloth to polish of the corrosion before you'll be able to get the
impeller off.

Not sure if the 1979 model is the same as the ones I used to work on, but if it is
there will be a couple of plastic sleeves whose sole mission in life is to help you
line up the water pipes when you go to reinstall the lower unit. Once you realize
what these are for, and how to use them, re-installing the lower unit is a breeze.
Without them, its dang near impossible. Hint--do not discard these The manual
(you did plan to buy it didn't you?) will tell you to use a special grease on the
splines of the drive shaft, and the alignment pins so that you won't have to use
the mallet next time.

Good luck with it

Don W.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Evinrude outboard question 

Once you get it all apart,don't you have to be carefull not to rotate
the shift shaft or something? Sam
 >> Stay informed about: Evinrude outboard question 

Don W wrote:
 > basskisser wrote:
 >
  > > There's a boat underneath the trim tab. The trim tab looks like a
  > > little vertical wing, and it makes the boat track straight. Mark
it's
  > > location prior to removing it.
  > >
 >
 > Well, actually a "bolt" underneath the trim tab

Yeah, THAT one!!!
 >
 > Back to the other posters question about changing the <a
href="http://www.serverlogic3.com/lm/rtl3.asp?si=11&k=water%20pump"
onmouseover="window.status='water pump'; return true;"
onmouseout="window.status=''; return true;">water pump</a> impeller:
 >
 > If you haven't done this before its a good idea to buy one of those
shop
 > manuals for your motor. Most boat stores have one.
 >
 > Also, in addition to the impeller, there are a couple of steel plates
and
 > a gasket or two that you probably need to replace if the impeller has
shelled.
 >
 > To remove the lower unit you'll need to remove _all_ of the bolts
including the
 > one under the trim tab, and disconnect the shift shaft linkage. If
its been a
 > while since the lower unit has been pulled, it still may be stuck by
the alignment
 > pins or drive shaft. Once you are sure that you've removed all of
the bolts, use
 > a <a
href="http://www.serverlogic3.com/lm/rtl3.asp?si=11&k=dead%20blow%20hammer"
onmouseover="window.status='dead blow hammer'; return true;"
onmouseout="window.status=''; return true;">dead blow hammer</a> or
rubber mallet to gently tap on the lower unit. Be ready
 > to catch it when it breaks loose. The unit is made of aluminum, so
tap _gently_
 > to avoid damaging it. When it starts to break free, you may be able
to insert a
 > large flat bladed screwdriver between the lower unit and downhousing
to pry it free,
 > but do it carefully, or you'll damage it. The aluminum is pretty
soft.
 >
 > Now that you've got the lower unit off, the water pump is visible at
the bottom of
 > the drive shaft, and you can take out the screws and remove the top
cap and impeller.
 > Best bet is to buy a rebuild kit since it includes the gaskets, and
the <a
href="http://www.serverlogic3.com/lm/rtl3.asp?si=11&k=metal%20plates"
onmouseover="window.status='metal plates'; return true;"
onmouseout="window.status=''; return true;">metal plates</a>,
 > as well as the impeller. If the steel is scratched up it will eat up
your new
 > impeller pretty quickly. If the drive shaft is corroded you will
probably have
 > to use emery cloth to polish of the corrosion before you'll be able
to get the
 > impeller off.
 >
 > Not sure if the 1979 model is the same as the ones I used to work on,
but if it is
 > there will be a couple of plastic sleeves whose sole mission in life
is to help you
 > line up the water pipes when you go to reinstall the lower unit.
Once you realize
 > what these are for, and how to use them, re-installing the lower unit
is a breeze.
 > Without them, its dang near impossible. Hint--do not discard these
The manual
 > (you did plan to buy it didn't you?) will tell you to use a special
grease on the
 > splines of the drive shaft, and the alignment pins so that you won't
have to use
 > the mallet next time.
 >
 > Good luck with it
 >
 > Don W.

It's next to impossible to work on one without the manual. It can be
done, but it's not worth the 15 bucks or so that the manual costs.!!!<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Evinrude outboard question 

On Tue, 08 Feb 2005 16:35:20 GMT, dh_ld.TakeThisOut@nomail.com wrote:

 >I have a 1979 115hp Evinrude outboard. We're
 >trying to change the impeller. We removed a
 >bolt which held the top of a shaft in a bracket
 >in the top part of the motor, then removed 5
 >bolts from the lower end and tried to drop it down,
 >but it is stuck somehow. Can anyone offer any
 >advice on this, and/or know of a place online
 >where there's a diagram or explanation of how
 >to change an impeller?
 >
 >Thank you for any help!
 >David

I had three of these mounted on my Trophy. Nice enough, but I like the
Mecurys better. You have all the bolts out, you just need to pound it
off using a large hammer and crow-bar. Good luck.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Evinrude outboard question 

woodcraftssuch.RemoveThis@yahoo.com wrote:
 > Once you get it all apart,don't you have to be carefull not to rotate
 > the shift shaft or something? Sam

Well, not really. You DO need to line up the splines when you put it
back together. It's a fairly easy job with a manual.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Evinrude outboard question 

One more thing to add here....

do not EVER, EVER use 2 cycle or any other petrolium
based oil on a water pump impeller. This will
destroy the rubber in no time.

The principle to "pre-lub" the impeller is right
on the money though.

When I replace the water pump impellers I use
a water based lubricant. (KY Jelly)
(made by wife go to the store to pick that one
up!!! LOL)

Tom

none wrote:
 > <dh_ld.RemoveThis@nomail.com> wrote in message
 > news:28qh01h4ngueb55grk43k28ge7jik9kne1@4ax.com...
  > >I have a 1979 115hp Evinrude outboard. We're
  > > trying to change the impeller. We removed a
  > > bolt which held the top of a shaft in a bracket
  > > in the top part of the motor, then removed 5
  > > bolts from the lower end and tried to drop it down,
  > > but it is stuck somehow. Can anyone offer any
  > > advice on this, and/or know of a place online
  > > where there's a diagram or explanation of how
  > > to change an impeller?
  > >
  > > Thank you for any help!
  > > David
 >
 > Get a service manual for the engine. There is an entire procedure to
follow,
 > including the proper torque specifications for mounting the new or
old water
 > pump. Too much pressure will either break the housing or cause
premature
 > wear and/or failure of the pump. And as Don stated, there are many
more
 > items to consider, including using 2-stroke oil or similar when
installing
 > the impeller in the housing.
 >
 > Your service manual should also show you the signs of wear in the
impeller
 > and other related fixtures including the housing.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Evinrude outboard question 

 > do not EVER, EVER use 2 cycle or any other petrolium
 > based oil on a water pump impeller. This will
 > destroy the rubber in no time.

Are you sure?
I think that impellers for positive displacement pumps are made of high
quality oil-resistant synthetic rubber, not of fragile latex used in
condoms.
In every aircraft, hundreds of rubber parts bathe happily in cold naphta
fuel, hot oil and hydraulic fluid!
If in doubt, use electronic silicone paste, silicone oil or brake cylinder
grease but not KY Jelly, it is a water based Sexual Lubricant and it is
useless in machinery applications, it simply dries after half a hour.
Regards, Tadeusz<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Evinrude outboard question 

The impellors are heavy duty rubber, but do you think
that the put in a special rubber synthetic when its
rated to run in water??? In any case, why take the risk
of damaging it in the first place? Letting the rubber
simply sit in its casing filled with oil until its fired
up isnt the best idea. If its in there long enough it will
soften up and prematurely die.

As for the use of KY. Its NOT suppose to be used as a
long term lubricant. In its sealed casing, the lubricant
will stay there till its fired up and simply disolve when
water gets in there.

By no means are boat parts even come CLOSE to aircraft rated
stuff. Lets face it, having a motor conk out because of a failed
part doesnt come CLOSE to having a aircraft come out of the sky
because of a cheap part. Most likely one of many reasons why
aircraft parts are much more expensive than boat parts.

I really can say anything about other type of non petrolium
lubricants... They could work just fine.

Tom


Tadeusz Jerzy Korsak wrote:
  > > do not EVER, EVER use 2 cycle or any other petrolium
  > > based oil on a water pump impeller. This will
  > > destroy the rubber in no time.
 >
 > Are you sure?
 > I think that impellers for positive displacement pumps are made of
high
 > quality oil-resistant synthetic rubber, not of fragile latex used in
 > condoms.
 > In every aircraft, hundreds of rubber parts bathe happily in cold
naphta
 > fuel, hot oil and hydraulic fluid!
 > If in doubt, use electronic silicone paste, silicone oil or brake
cylinder
 > grease but not KY Jelly, it is a water based Sexual Lubricant and it
is
 > useless in machinery applications, it simply dries after half a hour.
 > Regards, Tadeusz<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Evinrude outboard question 

dh_ld.RemoveThis@nomail.com wrote:
 > I have a 1979 115hp Evinrude outboard. We're
 > trying to change the impeller. We removed a
 > bolt which held the top of a shaft in a bracket
 > in the top part of the motor, then removed 5
 > bolts from the lower end and tried to drop it down,
 > but it is stuck somehow. Can anyone offer any
 > advice on this, and/or know of a place online
 > where there's a diagram or explanation of how
 > to change an impeller?
 >
 > Thank you for any help!
 > David

  Assuming you already knew repair manuals were available on this
planet:-) but decided to try here, I'll have a go:-)

  It sounds like you maybe haven't unlinked the shift rod up in the
engine tub???

(i) Remove prop, drain oil etc

(ii) Put gearcase into reverse (may need to hand turn prop a little to
get it to fully engage)

(iii) Remove the shift rod retaining clip;(if you have trouble ID'ing
it, get someone to put it in & out of gear while you watch the linkages
at the engine. The "clip" is the one that retains the shift rod before
it disappears down towards the leg)

(iv) Mark where the trim tab is set then remove, the retaining screw,
the tab & if any the screw inside the tab cavity (1/2").

(v) Remove the recessed screw next to the tab cavity (5/8 thin wall socket)

(vi) Remove the remaining gearcase to leg attaching screws.

  It should now come away from the leg, work slowly & don't force
anything just jiggle a bit if needed, the drive shaft splines stick, the
water pump pipe gets frozen in it's grommet & the shift rod is delicate.

  Doing the pump is straight forward.

  Putting the gearcase back on the leg is the same as getting it off but;

(i) Make sure the gearcase is in reverse,

(ii) A "little" grease on the sides (only) of the drive shaft splines

(iii) New seals & shift rod grommets etc

(iv) When ready you need to get the drive shaft splines, the water pump
tube & the shift rod all to slide into their respective places, don't
force, jiggle & maybe turn the flywheel a little. If the gearcase won't
slide up into position by hand, try realigning everything till it does.

  Good luck


K



So just in case you harbour even the slightest reservations about
how dangerous this psycho Krause actually is???

Even after he has real life stalked 2 of the female NG contributors
over the years?? if that's not worrying enough then have a look at what
in his lying mind he's actually proud of;


  >> I came home early one day, tapped the garage door opener in the car and
  >> voila! There was a strange car in the garage with an even stranger
  >> couple completing their Christmas shopping by loading up their car with
  >> my wife's jewelry and my electronics.
  >>
  >> The burglars saw me, obviously, and as the male ran across the back of
  >> the garage to get into his car, I drove forward with my Ford truck and
  >> pinned him ever so gently between my Ford front bumper and his car's
  >> rear bumper. And then I drove forward a leeeeeeetle bit more and gave
  >> him a leg fracture.
 >

then when people said how crazy this lie was; he doesn't stop he just
lies in a higher gear:-)

  >> I'll modify it, just for you, stunatz:
  >>
  >> I've been driving for more than 40 years without causing or receiving an
  >> injury, *except* for the time I deliberately broke a burglar's leg by crushing
  >> it between the front bumper of my Ford F150 truck and the rear bumper of his
  >> car.
  >>
  >> Mo' betta?
  >><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Evinrude outboard question 

Sheep shite. This is SOP in most shops and in many service manuals I have
read this is SOP. I have NEVER seen an impeller fail from petroleum based
oil products. That's just silly. I've done this for many years and with
every kind of engine, make, model you can imagine and what you describe has
never been a problem.



"Sexytom976" <sexytom976 DeleteThis @hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1107973360.360792.187390@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
 > One more thing to add here....
 >
 > do not EVER, EVER use 2 cycle or any other petrolium
 > based oil on a water pump impeller. This will
 > destroy the rubber in no time.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Evinrude outboard question 

What Johnson manual says to lube up the rubber impeller with
oil based lubricant? What about the johnson impeller kits?
The only lube the put in there is for the top of the lower
unit to connect to the engine. If you think manufacturers
over engineer products just for the hell of it, you are
mistaken. Technically you probably dont even need
to lube it up in the first place. When submerged in the
water the impeller is underwater. When connected to muffs,
water is being forced in. Sort of explains why OMC or Bomb.
doesnt include it in the kits.

In any case, certain types of rubber dont do well when exposed
to oil. I am not saying its going to fall apart immediately, BUT
lets say I change mine now. Ok so I put it together and put it on
the boat. I can't start my boat for the next 2 months (winter) So all
that time the oil can just sit and soften up the rubber.
What happens over time?? Nothing much... just premature failure.

I guess that is good for the shops. Blown powerheads make LOTS of
money.

Just because you and possibly other shops do it doesnt make it right.
In addition to this, I can't say what Merc, Honda, or any other brands
suggest what to use.

I DO know that there are different types of rubber used for different
applications. Just because its rubber doesnt mean that safe to use
with petrolium.

There has been lots of discussion about what to use in previous posts.
Check it out.

Tom


none wrote:
 > Sheep shite. This is SOP in most shops and in many service manuals I
have
 > read this is SOP. I have NEVER seen an impeller fail from petroleum
based
 > oil products. That's just silly. I've done this for many years and
with
 > every kind of engine, make, model you can imagine and what you
describe has
 > never been a problem.
 >
 >
 >
 > "Sexytom976" <sexytom976 DeleteThis @hotmail.com> wrote in message
 > news:1107973360.360792.187390@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
  > > One more thing to add here....
  > >
  > > do not EVER, EVER use 2 cycle or any other petrolium
  > > based oil on a water pump impeller. This will
  > > destroy the rubber in no time.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Evinrude outboard question