Engine cooling

Hi, I bought a Shetland 535 last year, sold as ready, but turned out to be
project boat. Most everything is fixed now but this is a 1600 Ford Crossflow
conversion with the Enfield 130 leg. My problem is cooling. Most everything
else is now in shape, but I need to solve cooling the engine. Currently
there is a system for "raw" (salt) water cooling but no pump or place toi
put it. I have heard of other this an inboard crossflow. Anyone got any
ideas? Would it be better to use a heat exchanger?
Thanks
Ivan

"cres@image,dk" <cres.TakeThisOut@image.dk> wrote in message
news:4468cd66$0$67264$157c6196@dreader2.cybercity.dk...
> Hi, I bought a Shetland 535 last year, sold as ready, but turned out to be
> project boat. Most everything is fixed now but this is a 1600 Ford
> Crossflow conversion with the Enfield 130 leg. My problem is cooling. Most
> everything else is now in shape, but I need to solve cooling the engine.
> Currently there is a system for "raw" (salt) water cooling but no pump or
> place toi put it. I have heard of other this an inboard crossflow. Anyone
> got any ideas? Would it be better to use a heat exchanger?
> Thanks
> Ivan
>


If you want a cheap DIY option then go for a dry exhaust and keel cooling (I
think the Shetland has a "bolt on" wooden keep or a stubby GRP one).

Fit the exhaust to the hull with a large metal plate in an oversize hole so
the GRP is not in immediate contact with the pipe and the plate dissipates
the heat. Get an exhaust flexible suitable for a dry exhaust from an
"inland" chandler and use either a vehicle or marine silencer. Wrap the
exhaust. silencer and the exhaust manifold in glass fibre tape to prevent
burns.

From plumbing fittings fabricate four 15mm tubes (1/2" engineers tube would
be better because it has a thicker wall) about 4 or 5 ft long, fitted into
headers about 4 to 6 inches across. The headers should be fitted with a
threaded "upstand" at each end so you can drill the hull and secure with a
flanged nut/sealing washer/mastic/wooden pad etc. close to the keel.

Take a hose/pipe about 1" to 11/2" diameter from one end of the cooler to
the engine water pump (the same one as the car used.

Take a hose from the thermostat housing with a T piece at its highest point
(1/2" for the T is fine). Run the main hose to the other cooler inlet. Get a
car's expansion bottle from a scrap yard and connect this to the T. Ensure
the hoes runs uphill all the way to the bottle and that the bottle is above
the thermostat housing.

Fill with 50% antifreeze mixture and you have a "winter proof" cooling
system with no sea water involved. If you have an oil cooler this is placed
in the pipe running to the engine water pump.

Ideally fit wooden fairings at either end of the keel cooler to protect it
from hitting underwater objects.

Tony Brooks