Get a copy of Dave Gerr's The Elements of Boat Strength, International
Marine, 2000.
It's not a great read, but it is a clear, easy to use reference for
figuring out scantlings in any boat between 10 and 120 feet.
Having given you a reference that might let you think you could do it
yourself, let me point out that this is a complex subject,
particularly in a boat big enough to use 3/8" steel hull plate. The
aluminum boat will be much lighter, so you will have to add weight to
bring her down to her lines. In a powerboat this has to be done very
carefully, as it would be easy to make her too stiff -- boats that are
too stiff have a sharp, stomach-wrenching roll, but not stiff enough
and they capsize....
In a sailboat, the knee jerk reaction is to simply add weight to the
keel, which is good for sail-carrying ability, but means that you will
have to make the rigging stronger.
In short, you can't change just one thing. It might be a good time to
consult a naval architect. Gerr is very accessible and willing to
think outside of the box....
Jim Woodward
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.mvfintry.com" target="_blank">www.mvfintry.com</a>
Techie <nomail.RemoveThis@here.net> wrote in message news:<Xns93DFCEE0ED097nomailherenet.RemoveThis@140.99.99.130>...
> If a plan for a ship calls for 3/8" thickness in steel hull, what would
> that be app. in Aluminium instead?<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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