Anchor rollers

Gene,
I'm not too familiar with windlasses. How hands free are they? If you
had remote control in the helm station, would you still have to go out on
the foredeck to secure the anchor? In other words, could you just have it
set up so you could drop anchor and later raise it or does someone still
have to assist on the foredeck?
Paul

"Gene Kearns" <ewkearns.RemoveThis@triad.rr.com> wrote in message
news:qo3f30po9pc0fhp4r7caphme3eu63igisd@4ax.com...
 > On Fri, 20 Feb 2004 15:52:18 GMT, "John Kenison"
 > <jkenison.RemoveThis@comcast.net> wrote:
 >
  > >I own an Arima 19' Sea Ranger (walk around cabin) which is a good boat in
  > >many respects but it has an anchor locker that is WAY too small to hold a
  > >useful anchor. The boat has an anchor roller on the bow, but I am looking
  > >for a one that I can use to store a good sized Fortress type anchor over
the
  > >bow. I have looked at some rollers that seem like they are supposed to
do
  > >this, but they only come with a clip FORWARD of the anchor roller. How is
  > >the shank of the anchor secured so the anchor will remain in place? Do
  > >people rely on securing the chain to a hook in the anchor locker or on
the
  > >deck behind the roller?
  > >
  > >I was surprised at the number of different type of anchors available, I
have
  > >always used a Fortress that is about 2 sizes larger than recommended for
the
  > >boat and have never been let down.
  > >
  > >
 >
 > My solution to this is to use a bungee cord to pull the shank of the
 > anchor aft and down against the roller and, thus, up against the
 > "clip" attached to the assembly forward of the roller. This keeps
 > things tight, even in a rough sea.
 >
 > I have a picture of this on my web page, but it isn't very clear....
 > I'll try to take a post a better shot....
 >
<font color=purple> > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/Cavern/The_Boat/The_Windlass_Assembled.htm</font" target="_blank">http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/Cavern/The_Boat/The_Windlass_Assembled....</fo</a>>
 >
 >
 >
 > --
 >
 >
 >
 > Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Southport, NC.
 >
<font color=purple> > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/cavern/</font" target="_blank">http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/cavern/</font</a>>
Homepage
 > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.southharbourvillage.com/directions.asp" target="_blank">http://www.southharbourvillage.com/directions.asp</a> Where
Southport,NC is located.
 > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.southharbourvillage.com/autoupdater.htm" target="_blank">http://www.southharbourvillage.com/autoupdater.htm</a> Real Time Pictures
at My Marina
 > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats" target="_blank">http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats</a> Rec.boats
at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide
 >
 >
 >
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Anchor rollers 

On Sat, 21 Feb 2004 17:11:39 -0500, "Paul Schilter"
<paulschilter@comcast,dot,net> wrote:

 >Gene,
 > I'm not too familiar with windlasses. How hands free are they? If you
 >had remote control in the helm station, would you still have to go out on
 >the foredeck to secure the anchor? In other words, could you just have it
 >set up so you could drop anchor and later raise it or does someone still
 >have to assist on the foredeck?
 >Paul
 >

Paul,

Windlasses are designed to lift the anchor and rode.... they are *NOT*
designed to unseat the anchor from deep mud, weeds, or whatever. My
method is to motor the boat over the anchor, cleat it off and if wave
action doesn't dislodge it, I motor on a short distance pulling the
anchor over backwards. Once the anchor is free, I return to the helm
and lift the anchor with the windlass.

You will probably always need assistance at the foredeck, if for no
other reason than to wash the mud and sand from the rode as it goes
into the locker.

They are still wonderful things.... lifting 215 feet of 1/2" line, 35
feet of chain, and a steel anchor with one finger.....

--



Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Southport, NC.

<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/cavern/" target="_blank">http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/cavern/</a> Homepage
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.southharbourvillage.com/directions.asp" target="_blank">http://www.southharbourvillage.com/directions.asp</a> Where Southport,NC is located.
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.southharbourvillage.com/autoupdater.htm" target="_blank">http://www.southharbourvillage.com/autoupdater.htm</a> Real Time Pictures at My Marina
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats" target="_blank">http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats</a> Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Anchor rollers 

Gene,
Thanks for the reply. So I guess that you can't pull the boat to the
anchor (assuming calm weather, little to no current)? While you have your
boat anchored, do you cleat off the anchor line, or is the windlass
sufficient to hold it ( again assuming calm weather, little to no current)?
If one uses an "all chain" anchor line, how do you cleat it off? Does the
anchor come up into the pulpit rollers without getting tangled up or does it
need human intervention? I notice that you tie off your anchor, is this
necessary, could you just have tension on the anchor from the windless? When
seating the anchor on the pulpit, how do you deal with not pulling it in too
much and damaging something? Do even the remote (in the helm) models have
controls at the windless or is this optional? Hope you don't mind all the
questions.
Paul

"Gene Kearns" <ewkearns.RemoveThis@triad.rr.com> wrote in message
news:n23g30tqcp490a2396mb1o0ufe7mso09fr@4ax.com...
 > On Sat, 21 Feb 2004 17:11:39 -0500, "Paul Schilter"
 > <paulschilter@comcast,dot,net> wrote:
 >
  > >Gene,
  > > I'm not too familiar with windlasses. How hands free are they? If
you
  > >had remote control in the helm station, would you still have to go out on
  > >the foredeck to secure the anchor? In other words, could you just have it
  > >set up so you could drop anchor and later raise it or does someone still
  > >have to assist on the foredeck?
  > >Paul
  > >
 >
 > Paul,
 >
 > Windlasses are designed to lift the anchor and rode.... they are *NOT*
 > designed to unseat the anchor from deep mud, weeds, or whatever. My
 > method is to motor the boat over the anchor, cleat it off and if wave
 > action doesn't dislodge it, I motor on a short distance pulling the
 > anchor over backwards. Once the anchor is free, I return to the helm
 > and lift the anchor with the windlass.
 >
 > You will probably always need assistance at the foredeck, if for no
 > other reason than to wash the mud and sand from the rode as it goes
 > into the locker.
 >
 > They are still wonderful things.... lifting 215 feet of 1/2" line, 35
 > feet of chain, and a steel anchor with one finger.....
 >
 > --
 >
 >
 >
 > Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Southport, NC.
 >
<font color=purple> > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/cavern/</font" target="_blank">http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/cavern/</font</a>>
Homepage
 > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.southharbourvillage.com/directions.asp" target="_blank">http://www.southharbourvillage.com/directions.asp</a> Where
Southport,NC is located.
 > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.southharbourvillage.com/autoupdater.htm" target="_blank">http://www.southharbourvillage.com/autoupdater.htm</a> Real Time Pictures
at My Marina
 > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats" target="_blank">http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats</a> Rec.boats
at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide
 >
 >
 >
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Anchor rollers 

Paul Schilter wrote:
 > Gene,
 > Thanks for the reply. So I guess that you can't pull the boat to the
 > anchor (assuming calm weather, little to no current)?

I've seen plenty of boaters use the windlass to pull their boats along
the anchor line to the anchor, and then use the windlass to pull the
anchor straight up. Under non-stressful conditions, this probably is ok,
though it puts lots of strain on the windlass. Motoring over to the
anchor while the windlass winds up the line is the best way. You should
be able to go slow enough so the windlass keeps up with the slack; if
not, have someone on deck handling the line.

You still have to get the anchor up off the bottom. I like to break my
anchor loose with an anchor lifting ball; that lifts the anchor up off
the bottom so there is virtually no strain on the windlass as it winds
in the line.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Anchor rollers 

On Sun, 22 Feb 2004 17:00:51 -0500, "Paul Schilter"
<paulschilter@comcast,dot,net> wrote:

 >Gene,
 > Thanks for the reply. So I guess that you can't pull the boat to the
 >anchor (assuming calm weather, little to no current)? While you have your
 >boat anchored, do you cleat off the anchor line, or is the windlass
 >sufficient to hold it ( again assuming calm weather, little to no current)?
 >If one uses an "all chain" anchor line, how do you cleat it off? Does the
 >anchor come up into the pulpit rollers without getting tangled up or does it
 >need human intervention? I notice that you tie off your anchor, is this
 >necessary, could you just have tension on the anchor from the windless? When
 >seating the anchor on the pulpit, how do you deal with not pulling it in too
 >much and damaging something? Do even the remote (in the helm) models have
 >controls at the windless or is this optional? Hope you don't mind all the
 >questions.
 >Paul
 >

Harry pretty much summed it up. It isn't that it can't be done.... or
isn't done, but the windlass (and most places you would chose to mount
it) is not designed for that sort of pull.

Best practices still require the standard Chinese fire drill, but the
windlass does ease the strain on the back....

--



Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Southport, NC.

<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/cavern/" target="_blank">http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/cavern/</a> Homepage
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.southharbourvillage.com/directions.asp" target="_blank">http://www.southharbourvillage.com/directions.asp</a> Where Southport,NC is located.
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.southharbourvillage.com/autoupdater.htm" target="_blank">http://www.southharbourvillage.com/autoupdater.htm</a> Real Time Pictures at My Marina
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats" target="_blank">http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats</a> Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Anchor rollers 

On Sun, 22 Feb 2004 17:00:51 -0500, "Paul Schilter"
<paulschilter@comcast,dot,net> wrote:

 >If one uses an "all chain" anchor line, how do you cleat it off?

I use what I call a "hook line". It is a 6 or 7 foot line with a hook
spliced into the end with an eye splice. It is used to hook the chain
and then the free end is cleated. After that I pay out a few inches
of chain to relieve pressure on the windlass. I also use the hook
line to secure the anchor after it has been retrieved and to prevent
an accidental "drop" which could be disastrous under way.
===============================

 >Does the
 >anchor come up into the pulpit rollers without getting tangled up or does it
 >need human intervention?

Usually comes up with no intervention. If the anchor comes up dirty,
I'll back down with about ten feet of chain still out and drag the
anchor through the water until it cleans up.

====================================================

 >I notice that you tie off your anchor, is this
 >necessary, could you just have tension on the anchor from the windless?

For a short stay in light conditions windlass tension is enough,
otherwise the anchor rode should be tied off to relieve strain.

======================================================

 >When
 >seating the anchor on the pulpit, how do you deal with not pulling it in too
 >much and damaging something?

Carefully! The risk of damage to the windlass or pulpit is quite
real. Use short bursts of the windlass to bring the anchor close, but
not all the way.

========================================

 >Do even the remote (in the helm) models have
 >controls at the windless or is this optional?

Usually optional but highly recommended on larger boats.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Anchor rollers 

Wayne, Harry & Gene,
Thanks for the comments. This gives me a better idea of the windlass's
function in real use.
Paul

"Wayne.B" <WayneBatRecdotBoats.RemoveThis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:vnpj30dkme9tff5u7kcmq4nje021tefa6p@4ax.com...
 > On Sun, 22 Feb 2004 17:00:51 -0500, "Paul Schilter"
 > <paulschilter@comcast,dot,net> wrote:
 >
  > >If one uses an "all chain" anchor line, how do you cleat it off?
 >
 > I use what I call a "hook line". It is a 6 or 7 foot line with a hook
 > spliced into the end with an eye splice. It is used to hook the chain
 > and then the free end is cleated. After that I pay out a few inches
 > of chain to relieve pressure on the windlass. I also use the hook
 > line to secure the anchor after it has been retrieved and to prevent
 > an accidental "drop" which could be disastrous under way.
 > ===============================
 >
  > >Does the
  > >anchor come up into the pulpit rollers without getting tangled up or does
it
  > >need human intervention?
 >
 > Usually comes up with no intervention. If the anchor comes up dirty,
 > I'll back down with about ten feet of chain still out and drag the
 > anchor through the water until it cleans up.
 >
 > ====================================================
 >
  > >I notice that you tie off your anchor, is this
  > >necessary, could you just have tension on the anchor from the windless?
 >
 > For a short stay in light conditions windlass tension is enough,
 > otherwise the anchor rode should be tied off to relieve strain.
 >
 > ======================================================
 >
  > >When
  > >seating the anchor on the pulpit, how do you deal with not pulling it in
too
  > >much and damaging something?
 >
 > Carefully! The risk of damage to the windlass or pulpit is quite
 > real. Use short bursts of the windlass to bring the anchor close, but
 > not all the way.
 >
 > ========================================
 >
  > >Do even the remote (in the helm) models have
  > >controls at the windless or is this optional?
 >
 > Usually optional but highly recommended on larger boats.
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Anchor rollers